Hey y'all! I'm having a few issues with the layout/template here on the blog. It seems this one is not compatible anymore and so it periodically tries to change it. I'll do some work in the next week or so and change the template so if you have any issues, fear not, I'll have it back up and going in no time! Feel free to email me at WolfdreamerOTH@gmail.com if you need to access something and it doesn't seem to work!

All pages and patterns of this site can now be translated by using the 'Translate this Page' Gadget at the top of the right hand column of every page. Hopefully this will help many of you who are more comfortable reading in your native language. :D


All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Sunday, December 20, 2009

Raichu

I finally got another one done!  Yay me!  LOL


Raichu has been much requested and I finally got around to making him.  Parts of him are a little different than most pokemon  (namely the ears and tail)  and the instructions look much more difficult than it really is.  This is definitely one of the pokemon I would recommend for those with at least a little experience in making dolls, but with patience even a beginner could manage it :)

As always, if you find anything in the pattern that's confusing or if you find a typo,  let me know and I'll fix it asap. 


RAICHU

MATERIALS

WW yarn in  yellow-orange, light yellow or cream, dark brown
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn needle
Small scraps of black and white felt
sewing threads to match yarn, and sewing needle

NOTES:

The actual size of your hook doesn't really matter,  as long as your hook and yarn choices result in tight even stitches.  Crocheting too loosely,  or using too large of a hook for the yarn weight,  will result in the stuffing showing through.   In general,  G hook and WW yarn makes for a nice even and tight stitch for making dolls. 

The numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row,  indicates the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

When sewing the parts together,  I recommend using a good sewing thread, doubled, on a strong sewing needle.  The reason for this is to prevent adding unwanted bulk to the joints or ridges around sewn on parts.  The other advantage is that you can use thread that matches the  yarn and your 'seams' are much less noticeable and generally smoother.    When working with two different colored pieces,  use thread to match the 'top' piece  or the lighter of the two pieces - whichever seems to work best for you.  (a little test never hurts before committing to sewing on a piece)



HEAD/BODY

(beginning at top of head,  with yellow-orange)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)
Rnd 8-10:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 11:  sc in next 20 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in last 20 sc  (44)
Rnd 12-13:  sc in each sc around  (44)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 20 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in last 20 sc  (42)
Rnd 15:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 17-18:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
(ending of head/beginning of body --- now is a good time to begin stuffing if you haven't already.  Stuff moderately firmly, remembering to 'shape' the nose/muzzle feature that was created in rounds 11-14.  Continue to stuff and shape as you progress.)
Rnd 20:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 21-22:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 23:  sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (45)
Rnd 24-25:  sc in each sc around  (45)
Rnd 26:  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (50)
Rnd 27-40:  sc in each sc around  (50)
Rnd 41:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (40)
Rnd 42:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 43:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (20)
Rnd 44:  dec over next 2 sc around  (10)
F/O, leaving tail.  Finish adding any stuffing needed to finalize the shape. Weave the tail through the final round and pull tight to close.  Secure well and weave in end.

ARMS (make 2)

Beginning with dark brown:

Rnd 1:  4 sc in Magic Ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  in last sc,  work 2 sc,  changing to orange-yellow in last sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (12)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (14)
Rnd 8:  sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 9:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)
Rnd 10:  sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 11:  sc next 7 sc,  ch 1 turn  (leave remaining stitches unworked)  (7)
Rnd 12:  sc 5, dec over last 2 sc  (6)
Rnd 13:  sc 4,  dec over last 2 sc  (5)
F/O.  Stuff arm moderately firm,  enough to shape well without overstuffing.  Do not close opening.

LEGS: (make 2)

(NOTE:  when instructed to dec over 3 sc,  it's the same as a regular dec, only over three stitches at once instead of 2)

Using orange-yellow

Rnd 1:  7 sc in Magic Ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 6 sc, 3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc, 3 sc in last sc  (18)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (22)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 10 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (24)
Rnd 6-8:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 9:  sc in next 10 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (22)
Rnd 10:  sc in next 7 sc,  dec over next 2 sc (repeat dec once more),  sc in next 7 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat dec once more)  (18)
Rnd 11:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 3 sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 3 sc  (14)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (12)
Rnd 13-14:  sc in each sc around  (12)
F/O.  Using the back end of a hook,  a chopstick or eraser end of a pencil,  stuff the leg moderately firm.  Don't over stuff, as you will need a little bit of 'shifting' room when sewing the leg to the side of the body.

FEET: (make 2)

Beginning with dark brown:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in Magic Ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3-4:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 5:  sc in each sc around, change to orange-yellow in last stitch of round  (12)
Rnd 6-13:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Stuff feet at this point if you haven't already.  Stuff moderately firm,  but do not overstuff.
Rnd 14:  dec in next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any stuffing need to finish the shaping.  Weave tail of yarn through final round and pull to close. Secure end and weave in .  Sew foot onto a leg,  taking extra care to position the foot so that it will face the proper direction when sewn onto the body.  (see the pictures to help with positioning)

BELLY SPOT

Using light yellow

Rnd 1:  8 sc in Magic Ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)
Rnd 7:  sc in each sc around  (48)
F/O.  Sew belly spot to front of body as shown,  stretching it sightly to create an oval shape.  Be careful in keeping the oval shape even, and properly centered below the 'nose/muzzle' of the head. Pinning the piece first to the body before sewing will help keep things straight for you.

EARS:  (make 4)

(Read through the ear assembly carefully before beginning - the ears must be made with a left ear and right ear,  or they won't work.  Patience is key with the trim around the ears, it looks alot worse in writing than it is in practice.)

Using orange-yellow

Row 1:  Ch 11,  sc in second ch from hook and each remaining chain, turn  (10)
Row 2:  Dec over first 2 sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc, turn - leave remaining sc unworked (7)
Row 3:  2 sc in first sc,  sc across to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc, turn (7)
Row 4:  Dec over first 2 sc,  sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc, turn   (7)
Row 5:  repeat row 3 (7)
F/O, weave in end

LEFT EAR ASSEMBLY:
.
Placing 2 of the ear pieces together  (matching shapes)  and holding the pieces so that the 'v' is facing towards your RIGHT,  attach the orange yellow yarn to the upper right corner.  Sc through all layers across the top and around the 'edge' evenly,  then work across the 'bottom' of the ear.  When you reach the bottom point of the 'v' make the 'curl' by ch 7, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook and each chain back up to the ear.  Continue sc around the v of the ear and sc in same sc as joining.  F/O

Attach the dark brown to same upper right corner  (make sure the 'curl' is at the bottom right).  Ch1 after joining and 2 sc in same sc as join.  Sc across top and around smaller side and three sc across the bottom,  turn and slip stitch evenly all the way back around to the first sc of the dark brown.  F/O weave in all ends.

RIGHT EAR ASSEMBLY:

Placing 2 of the ear pieces together  (matching shapes),  and holding the pieces so that the 'v' is facing towards your LEFT,  attach the orange-yellow to the bottom right corner   sc evenly up the side, across the top and down through the 'v' to the bottom of the v.  Ch 7,  slip stitch in the 2nd ch from the hook and across to the ear and continue to sc around, slip stitch in first sc.  F/O

Attach the dark brown to the third sc to the left of where you joined the orange-yellow before,  working up the side and around the top,  sc evenly to the top of the v,  2 sc in corner stitch at top of v,  turn and slip stitch evenly across to first sc of dark brown.  F/O


TAIL:

Using dark brown

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2-48:  sc in each sc around  (6)
Rnd 49:  sc 4, ch1 turn (leave remaining scs unworked)  (4)
Rnd 50:  sc 2, dec over last 2 sc  (3)
F/O.  Stuffing tail is not necessary,  but if you want to make it somewhat poseable,  you can moderately stuff it as you progress. I tried both ways, and found that leaving it unstuffed was preferable.

LIGHTNING BOLT:  (make 2)

Using light  yellow:

Row 1:  Ch 4,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across  (3)
Row 2-8:  sc in each sc across  (3)
Row 9:  sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc (4)
Row 10:  sc in each sc across (4)
Row 11-12:  repeat rows 9 and 10  (5)
Row 13-14:  repeat rows 9 and 10  (6)
Row 15-16:  repeat rows 9 and 10  (7)
Row 17-18:  repeat rows 9 and 10  (8)
Row 19-20:  repeat rows 9 and 10  (9)
Row 21:  repeat row 9 (10)
Row 22:  sc in each sc across to end  (10)
Row 23:  ch 6,  sc in 2nd sc from hook and remaining 4 chs,  sc in next five sc of previous row  (10)
Row 24:  sc in each sc across to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (9)
Row 25:  sc in each sc across (9)
Row 26-27:  repeat rows 24 and 25  (8)
Row 28-29:  repeat rows 24 and 25  (7)
Row 30-31:  repeat rows 24 and 25  (6)
Row 32-33:  repeat rows 24 and 25  (5)
Row 34-35:  repeat rows 24 and 25  (4)
Row 36-37:  repeat rows 24 and 25  (3)
Row 38-39:  repeat rows 24 and 25  (2)
Row 40:  dec over 2 sc  (1)
Row 41:  sc in sc.
F/O.  Weave in end on first of the two bolt pieces. Leave a fairly long tail on the second of the two bolt pieces.  Place the two pieces together,  matching the shape.  Using a yarn needle and the long tail left on the second piece,  whip stitch the two pieces together carefully.  When you reach the 'bottom' of the bolt,  (the beginning row)  insert the closed end of the tail  (smaller end) and securely sew through all layers to attach the tail to the bolt.  Continue whipstitching up the other side of the bolt to the top.  Secure and weave in ends.

STRIPES: (make 2)

Using dark brown

Ch 16.  Slip stitch in second ch from hook.  sc in next 2 ch,  hdc in next 2 ch,  dc in next 5 ch,  hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch, slip stitch in last ch. 
F/O.

CHEEK PATCHES:

Using light  yellow:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in Magic Ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
F/O weave in ends


FINAL ASSEMBLY:   I recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing to ensure that you have everything like you want it.  Make any adjustments as needed before sewing.    Sew all the pieces to the body.  Make sure that the ears, arms and legs are positioned correctly before sewing.

Take care when sewing to center ears and cheek patches to the 'nose' at the front of the head.  Arms and legs are positioned and sewn as shown in the pictures.   Sew tail to bottom of body at the middle.  Stripes are placed as shown and sewn in place.

Using a bit of sewing thread doubled,  or embroidery floss  (or dark yarn)  make a few small whipstitches at the top of the 'nose'  as shown.  Sew or glue on small circles from black felt for eyes,  and two very tiny circles of white for catchlights.  Embroider mouth shape as shown in same thread or yarn used for nose.


RAICHU and POKEMON are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (December 2009).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 










Sunday, November 29, 2009

Ampharos


I hope you'll forgive the fact that pictures aren't really all that great,  but the weather has been really crummy outside,  so we took the pics inside.

Ampharos is another of the lesser known pokemon I'm really quite fond of.  The pattern is a bit complicated in that there are quite a few parts to him, and lots of color changes.  Other than that though,  he's not very difficult to make.

I used a yellow color called cornmeal,  it was the closest color I could find to the color of Ampharos in the show and on its cards,  but you can use any color that's close.

As always,  if you find a problem in the pattern,  or if you just need help leave a message and I'll get back at ya as soon as I can.  :)


Ampharos

MATERIAL:

WW yarn in Yellow, black, white and red
G Hook
Fiberfill
Small amount of black and white felt  (for the eyes)
Yarn Needle

NOTES:

Although I generally join all my rounds,  working this doll in the continuous round method will be just as effective.

The numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row,  indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.


HEAD:

Using yellow

Rnd 1:  6 sc in MR  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat two more times)   (9)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat two more times)  (12)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat two more times)  (15)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat two more times)  (18)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat two more times)  (21)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat two more times)  (24)
Rnd 8-14:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 15: sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next two sc around  (20)
Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next two sc around  (16)
Begin stuffing piece at this point if you haven't already.
Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next two sc around  (12)
Rnd 18: sc in next sc,  dec over next two sc around  (8)
F/O.  finish adding any stuffing to  finalize the shape of the head.  Weave in end in last round of sc,  pull to close.  Secure and weave in end.


BODY:

Using yellow:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in MR  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (45)
Rnd 7-20:  sc in each sc around  (45)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 7 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (40)
Rnd 22:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 23:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (35)
Rnd 24:  sc in each sc around  (35)
Rnd 25:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 26:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Begin stuffing body here,  if you haven't already.  Continue to stuff the body as you progress.
Rnd 27:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (25)
Rnd 28:  sc in each sc around  (25)
Rnd 29:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (20)
Rnd 30:  sc in each sc around.  Change to black in the last sc of round.  (Do not cut the yellow,  just drop it for now and continue working with the black yarn)   (20)
Rnd 31:  sc in each sc around (20)
Rnd 32:  sc in next 8 sc,  dec over next 2 sc (repeat once more).  Pick up yellow yarn and change to yellow in last stitch of round   (18)
Rnd 33:  sc in each sc around,  drop yellow and change to black yarn in last sc of round  (18)
Rnd 34-35:  sc in each sc around,  drop black and change to yellow in last sc of round  (18)
Rnd 36:  sc in each sc around,  drop yellow and change to black in the last sc of round  (18)
Rnd 37-38: sc in each sc around, change to yellow in last sc of round,  F/O black yarn.  (18)
Rnd 39-40:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 41:  sc 14,  leave remaining stitches unworked,  do not ch 1,  turn  (14)
Rnd 42:  skip first sc,  sc to last 2 sc of row,  dec over last 2 sc in row  (12)
Rnd 43:  repeat row 42  (10)
Rnd 44:  repeat row 42  (8)
Rnd 45:  repeat row 42  (6)
Rnd 46:  repeat row 42  (4)
F/O and finish adding any stuffing needed to finalize the shape of the body and neck.  Don't close the opening at neck.

ARMS:

Using yellow

Rnd 1:  6 sc in MR  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat once more)  (8)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat once more)  (10)
Rnd 4.  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat once more)  (12)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat once more)  (14)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat once more)  (16)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat once more)  (18)
Rnd 8:  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat once more)  (20)
Rnd 9-11:  sc in each sc around  (20)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 8 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat once more)  (18)
Rnd 13:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (15)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
F/O.  Flatten Arm/wing  (do not stuff).

EARS:

Using black

Rnd 1:  4 sc in MR  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat once more).  Change to yellow in last sc of round,  don't F/O the black,  drop it for later.  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat once more)  (8)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around,  change to black in last sc of round  (8)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc  (repeat once more)(10)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat once more)  (12)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat once more)  (14)
F/O and stuff to shape.

BELLY SPOT:

Using white:

(Don't ch 1 at the end of each row,  just turn and work first sc in the very last sc of the previous row)

Row 1:  ch 5,  sc in second ch from hook and each remaining chain  (4)
Row 2:  2 sc in first sc of row,  sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 3:  sc in each sc across (6)
Row 4:  repeat row 2  (8)
Row 5:  sc in each sc across  (8)
Row 6:  repeat row 2  (10)
Row 7:  sc in each sc across  (10)
Row 8:  repeat row 2  (12)
Row 9:  sc in each sc across  (12)
Row 10:  repeat row 2  (14)
Row 11-20:  sc in each sc across  (14)
Row 21:  dec over the first 2 sc of row,  sc in each sc across to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (12)
Row 22:  repeat row 21  (10)
Row 23:  repeat row 21  (8)
Row 24:  repeat row 21  (6)
Row 25:  repeat row 21  (4)
Don't F/O.   Ch 1 and working down the side and around bottom and up the other side,  work sc evenly around.  Slip stitch to the first sc of edging row.
F/O and weave in ends.

LEGS:

Using yellow

Rnd 1:  6 sc in MR  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat 2 more times)  (27)
Rnd 6-8:  sc in each sc around  (27)
Rnd 9:  sc in next 7 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 10:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (21)
Begin stuffing here if you haven't already,  continue to stuff as you progress.
Rnd 11:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (15)
Rnd 13:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 14:  sc in each sc around  (12)
F/O and work in end.  Finish adding any stuffing needed to finish out the shape.  Round part of leg should be firm but not too 'round',  it should be kind of flat  (see pictures). 

FEET:

Using white

Rnd 1:  6 sc in MR  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat two more times),  change to yellow in last sc of round.  (F/O white)   (9)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat two more times)  (12)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat two more times)  (15)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already and continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 5:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat two more times)  (18)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat two more times)  (21)
Rnd 7-10:  sc in each sc around  (21)
Rnd 11:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc  around  (14)
Rnd 12:  dec over next 2 sc around  (7)
F/O.  Add any stuffing need to finish out the shape (see picture for help with shaping)
Weave end through the last round of sc and pull to tighten.   Sew foot to leg as shown.

TAIL:

(Begin to stuff the tail at any point,  but don't wait too long because the long narrow shape will make stuffing very difficult if you wait too long to start,  although using a chopstick or knitting needle is very helpful with stuffing shapes like this)

Using black

Rnd 1:  6 sc in MR  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in each sc around  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat two more times)  (9)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 5:  sc in each sc around.  Change to yellow in last sc of round  (9)
Rnd 6-7:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 8:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat two more times)  (12)
Rnd 9:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 10:  sc in each sc around,  change to black in last sc of round  (12)
Rnd 11-12:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 13:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat two more times)  (15)
Rnd 14:  sc in each sc around  (15)
Rnd 15:  sc in each sc around,  change to yellow in last sc of round  (15)
Rnd 16-17:  sc in each sc around  (15)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat two more times)  (18)
Rnd 19:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 20:  sc in each sc around,  change to black in last sc of round  (18)
Rnd 21-22:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 23:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (repeat two more times)  (21)
Rnd 24:  sc in each sc around  (21)
Rnd 25:  sc in each sc around,  change to yellow in last sc of round  (21)
Rnd 26-27:  sc in each sc around  (21)
Row 28:  sc in next 12 sc,  leave remaining sc unworked.  Don't ch 1,  turn  (12)
Row 29:  skip first sc,  sc in next sc and each sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc (10)
Row 30:  repeat row 29  (8)
Row 31:  repeat row 29  (6)

RED FOREHEAD "LIGHT"

Using red

Rnd 1:  6 sc in MR  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in each sc around  (12)
F/O.  Stuff lightly

RED TAIL "BALL LIGHT"

Using red

Rnd 1:  6 sc in MR  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4-6:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 7:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 8:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O  stuff ball firmly to shape,  do not close the open end.  Place open end over point of tail as shown and sew on securely.

ASSEMBLY:

Sew head to top of body as shown.  The 'neck' of the body has a shoulder cape that goes up on the back side of the head to give the position as see in the pictures.    Sew ears to side of head as shown. Sew the 'light' to the forehead as shown in the pictures.

Sew the 'belly spot' to the front of the body centered with the head.  The slightly smaller end of the body goes at the bottom. 

Sew the legs/feet to the side of the body at the bottom as shown.  Sew the legs securely to the body so as to get the shape as seen in the pictures. 

Sew the arms/wings to the sides of the body as shown.

Sew tail to the back of the body,  placing the 'cape' of the open end slightly underneath the body and adjusting the tail to get the position desired.

Cut two small oval shapes from black felt and sew or glue them to the face as shown,  add two very tiny circles of white felt  (or a drop of white fabric paint)  for the catch lights in the eyes.


AMPHAROS and POKEMON are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (November 2009).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may pring and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 



Friday, September 25, 2009

Meowth Plushie


I had to do Meowth eventually.  I put it off forever because I have the worst problems with mouths... and I have at least a dozen 'Meowth mouths' on my worktable that didn't make the cut.   I'm still not very happy with that one,  but maybe one of you talented crafters will be able to make a better one :D.

I adore Meowth because he's scrappy and intelligent and just generally fun to watch in action.  

As always,  if you find any problems with the pattern,  please let me know,  I'll fix it as soon as I can and if you have any questions just post 'em :)


MATERIALS:

WW yarn buff, medium brown, dark brown and small amount of gold
G Hook
Fiberfill
White, black and red felt scraps

NOTES:

Gauge isn't really important,  just make sure that your yarn choice and hook choice result in a fairly tight stitch so that stuffing won't show through. 

Numbers at the end of each rnd/row in ( ) are the total number of stitches that should be in each round or row.

Read through the entire pattern before beginning to get familiar with how the pattern comes together.


HEAD:
using buff:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (49)
Rnd 8:  sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (56)
Rnd 9-15:  sc in each sc around  (56)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (49)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (42)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (35)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (28)
Begin stuffing here, and continue to stuff as you go.  Stuff firmly shaping the head as you stuff.
Rnd 20:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (21)
Rnd 21:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (14)
Rnd 22:  dec over next 2 sc around  (7)
F/O leaving a tail and then using chopstick or back of crochet hook,  finish adding any stuffing you need and shape.  Weave in the tail and pull to close.

BODY:
using buff:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 7-18:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (35)
Begin stuffing here, stuff firmly while shaping.  Continue stuffng as you go.
Rnd 20:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (28)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (21)
Rnd 22:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (14)
F/O and add any stuffing needed to finish out the shaping.

ARMS:
using buff: make 2

Rnd 1:  9 sc in magic ring  (9)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 3-5:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 6:  dec over next 2 sc around  (9)
Rnd 7-16:  sc in each sc around  (9)
F/O,  stuff arms to wrist,  leave 'paws' unstuffed.

Using dark brown yarn and yarn needle,  make 'claws' (two on each paw)  see photos to help with placement.

FEET:
Using medium brown: (make 2)

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (15)
Rnd 4-10:  sc in each sc around  (change to buff yarn in last stitch of round 10)  (15)
Rnd 11-14:  sc in each sc around  (15)
Begin stuffing here.  Stuff moderately firm.  Continue to stuff as you go.
Rnd 15:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 16:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O leaving tail.  Add any stuffing needed to finish the shaping.  Don't overstuff.  Weave tail through last round and pull to close.

LEGS:
Using buff: (make 2)

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  working in Back Loops Only for this round,  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 4-7:  sc in each sc around  (12)
F/O and stuff leg moderately firmly.  Don't overstuff. 

Sew the 'closed' end of the leg to the top of the foot at the back  (see photos for help with placement) 

Using dark brown yarn and yarn needle,  make 'claws' (two on each foot) see photos for help.

EARS:
Using Dark Brown: (make 2)

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next  sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (15)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (15)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 8-10:  sc in each sc around  (18)
F/O.  Do not stuff,  flatten ear.

Ear INSET:
Using med brown: (make 2)

Row 1:  Ch 6,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (5)
Row 2:  sc in each sc across  (5)
Row 3:  sc in first 3 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (4)
Row 4:  sc in first 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (3)
Row 5:  sc in first sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (2)
Row 6:  dec over 2 sc  (1)
F/O.  Weave in ends.  Position and sew the 'inset' to the center bottom of the ear  (see photo for placement)


TAIL:
Using buff:

Rnd 1:  9 sc in magic ring  (9)
Rnd 2:  working in Back Loops Only for this round,  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 3-9:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 10:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Begin stuffing here if you haven't already.  Stuff tail moderately firmly.  Don't overstuff.
Rnd 11:  sc in each sc around,  change to medium brown in last stitch of round  (12)
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (15)
Rnd 15:  sc in each sc around  (15)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 17:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O leaving tail.  Finish adding stuffing if needed to complete shape.  Don't stuff the end too firmly.  Weave tail through final round and pull to close,   using tail,  curl the end around on itself  (see photos)  and secure.  Weave in ends.


CHARM:
using gold color yarn:

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (8)
Rnd 3-9:  sc in each sc around  (8)
Rnd 10:  dec over next 2 sc around  (4)
F/O,  do not stuff.  Flatten charm.   Using dark brown thread or embroidery floss,  create lines every other row of the charm  (see photo).  Those lines are purely optional,  but the charm on Meowth has them,  so I added them.


WHISKERS:
Using buff:

Make 2 of the following  (these go at the top of the head between his ears)

Row1:  Ch 13,  slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs.  Sc in next 6 chs,  HDC in last 3 chs. 
F/O

Make 4 of the following:

Row 1:  Ch 11,  slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs.  Sc in next 5 chs,  HDC in last 2 chs.  F/O

ASSEMBLY:

I recommend pinning parts together before you sew,  to make sure you have them in the placement you want before making it permanent. 

Sew head to neck of body.  Sew arms to sides of body,  making sure that the paws are both facing the right way.  Sew legs to bottom of body,  either in sitting or standing positions.  Sew ears to the top of the head as shown,  charm goes between his ears so that it stands up.  Sew the 'whiskers' to the head...  the two longer whiskers go on top of the head between the ears,  the other four are sewn to the sides of the head as shown.

Using paper,  cut out facial features before using felt ...  it will save you ALOT of time.  Pin the facial features on before sewing,  to make sure you have the right sizes and placements.  The mouth is outlined with dark brown yarn as shown.

Don't forget to cut out and sew on his little fangs...  he's just not meowth without the hardware!

I positioned his paws up by his face...  my girls wanted him that way, and I like it...  he looks kind of like he's about to pounce on you.  Any way you make him,  Meowth is just adorable  :)



MEOWTH and POKEMON are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (September 2009).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 


Friday, September 18, 2009

Natu Plushie


Natu is a cute pokemon,  he has these big eyes like a night-hawk that were very hard to get right lol.  I tried to make the wings all crochet,  but it just wouldn't work at this size,  I would have to make him much bigger to get that to work,  so his wing details are felt strips instead.

As always,  if you have any troubles with him,  or find anything wrong in the pattern,  let me know :)

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in green, yellow, light red
G Hook
Scraps of felt in white and black
Fiberfill

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important,  just ensure that your hook and yarn sizes result in a fairly tight stitch that won't allow the fiberfil to show thru.

Numbers at the end of rounds/rows indicate the total number of stitches that should be in the round/row.

BODY:  Using green:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (49)
Rnd 8-14:  sc in each sc around  (49)
Rnd 15:  sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (42)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (35)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (28)

Being stuffing at this point and continue as you go along.

Rnd 18:  sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (21)
Rnd 19:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (14)
Rnd 20:  dec over next 2 sc around  (7)

F/O leaving a tail and then using chopstick or back of crochet hook,  finish adding any stuffing you need and shape to a ball.  Weave in the tail and pull to close.

WINGS:

Begin with yellow:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (9)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 3-5:  sc in each sc around  (in last sc of rnd 5,  change to light red yarn and then join round) (18)
Rnd 6-11:  sc in each sc around
Rnd 12:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (9)

Cut six strips of black felt  approx 1/4 inch wide and 5 inches long.   Using photos as a guide,  glue/sew the strips of felt to the wings as shown.

CREST:

Using light red:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2-10:  sc in each sc around (8)
Rnd 11:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc
F/O.


BEAK:

Using yellow:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (12)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (14)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (18)
Rnd 7:  sc in each sc around  (18)
F/O.

FEET:

Make 4 using light red:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  * Ch 5,  sc 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 chs,  sc in next sc*  repeat * to * once more, 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc, Ch 5,  hdc 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 chs,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in last sc
F/O and weave in ends

Place two of the 'feet' together with the wrong sides to the inside,  sew together with a whipstitch round the sides,  using a piece of the light red yarn and a yarn needle.

LEG: 

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  working in Back Loops Only,  sc in each sc round  (6)
Rnd 3:  working now through both loops,  sc in each sc around  (6)
F/O.

Sew the leg to the foot as shown in photo,  with the open side of the leg facing up.  Stuff leg firmly.

TAIL:

Row 1:  ch 3,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch  (2)
Row 2:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in last sc  (3)
Row 3:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (4)
Row 4:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (5)
Row 5:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 6:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (7)
Row 7-9:  sc in each sc across.
F/O and weave in ends.

ASSEMBLY:

Using photos as reference assistance for placing parts...  crest is sewn to head just slightly back from center.  Legs are sewn to body at bottom.  Wings are sewn to sides as shown.  Tail is sewn to lower center of back.  Sew 2 of the tail pieces next  to each other,  then one piece centered over the two.  Beak is sewn to face as shown.

Eyes are made as shown,  by cutting an almond shape from white felt and circles from black.  (Use paper first and pin the paper to the doll's face to make sure you get the size of eye shape you want).   Once eyes are sewn or glued to face as desired,  cut two very small circles of white felt and glue/sew to eyes as shown for catch lights.

Finally,  cut four elongated triangles from white felt and sew to the 'toes' for talons.


Natu and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (September 2009).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Pink HandWarmers

This pattern was a special request from one of my deviantART friends.   I designed these quite some time ago for my 15 year old daughter,  well I designed about a dozen different hand warmers for her,  since she wears them all the time so I have many patterns for these.

I like wearing hand warmers too,  I have severe rheumatoid arthritis and the added warmth from wearing these (especially when I'm sleeping)  keeps my hands from getting as stiff or sore.... Now if I could just figure out a way to make a 'hip warmer' for my left hip  LOL


Hand Warmers

These hand warmers fit a small adult or teenager's hand.  You can increase the overall size by increasing the number of rows at the wrist/cuff.  Then simply follow the pattern (adding the appropriate number of stitches to the ( ) at the end of each row.

For instance,  if you increase the wrist/cuff size by 2 rows,  then the number of stitches at the beginning of the 'hand' portion will increase by two,  the total number of stitches in the increase rows will increase by two.

After making a few of these,  you get a good feeling for the pattern's 'theory'  and can easily increase or decrease the sizes as you need them.

Using a G hook and your favorite WW yarn :

Wrist/Cuff

Row 1:  ch 6,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and remaining chs,  (5)
Row 2,  working in back loops only,  sc in each sc across  (5)
Row 3-28:  repeat row 2  (5)
Do not fasten off.  Bring both ends of the cuff together and slip stitch carefully to end of the row.  Turn and work 28 sc evenly around the cuff,  (one sc in the end of each row),  join the round to the first sc

You now have a 'ring'  with a total of 28 sc topping of your ribbed cuff.  You will need to join your rounds with a slip stitch in the first sc of each round,  then Ch 1 to begin next round

Right hand warmer:

Rnd 1:  sc in same sc as join and each sc around  (28)
Rnd 2:  sc in same sc as join,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,   2 sc in next to last sc, and sc in last sc of round,  join and ch 1  (30)
Rnd 3:  repeat round 1  (30)
Rnd 4:  repeat round 2  (32)
Rnd 5-11:  repeat round 1  (32)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 22 sc,  ch 4,  skip 8 sc,  sc in last 2 sc  (24 sc,  4 ch )
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc and each ch around,  (28)
Rnd 14:  sc in each sc around (28)
Rnd 15:  sc in first sc, * ch 2,  skip one sc,  sc in next sc *,  repeat from * to *  around,  end with ch2 and slip stitch in first sc.
Rnd 16:  slip stitch to ch 1 sp.    ch 3,  slip stitch in next ch 1 sp,  * ch 2,  slip stitch in  next ch 1 sp *, repeat from * to * 1 more time.    Try on the hand warmer  (make sure you put it on the right hand)  look and see where the 'finger loop' will need to be  (it's different for each person),  mark that sp,  and continue around  as before  to marked space,  sc in that space,  ch 11,  sc in same space,  ch 2 and continue to end of round,  end with ch 2 and slip stitch in first slip stitch.
F/O and weave in ends.

Left hand warmer:

Work cuff as above.

Rnd 1:  sc in same sc as join and each sc around  (28)
Rnd 2:  sc in same sc as join,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,   2 sc in next to last sc, and sc in last sc of round,  join and ch 1  (30)
Rnd 3:  repeat round 1  (30)
Rnd 4:  repeat round 2  (32)
Rnd 5-11:  repeat round 1  (32)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 2 sc,  ch 4,  skip 8 sc,  sc in last 22 sc  (24 sc,  4 ch )
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc and each ch around,  (28)
Rnd 14:  sc in each sc around (28)
Rnd 15:  sc in first sc, * ch 2,  skip one sc,  sc in next sc *,  repeat from * to *  around,  end with ch2 and slip stitch in first sc.
Rnd 16:  slip stitch to ch 1 sp.    ch 3,  slip stitch in next ch 1 sp,  * ch 2,  slip stitch in  next ch 1 sp *, repeat from * to * 1 more time.    Try on the hand warmer  (make sure you put it on the left hand)  look and see where the 'finger loop' will need to be  (it's different for each person),  mark that sp,  and continue around  as before  to marked space,  sc in that space,  ch 11,  sc in same space,  ch 2 and continue to end of round,  end with ch 2 and slip stitch in first slip stitch.
F/O and weave in ends.

If you find you have any problems with this pattern feel free to email me or post a message here,  I'll get back to you as soon as I possibly can  :)

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (2009).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection.  You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.  Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.

Friday, September 4, 2009

Luigi Plushie


Well, I knew it had to happen.

I'm sitting here, working hard on new patterns, and there sits Mario, alone, waiting, occasionally tapping his foot and staring me down. Ok, ok... I get it! You want Luigi, right? Well yes, he did... so being a good little doll-maker, I obliged him his request.

Here's Luigi... companion doll to my Mario Plushie.

He's somewhat like Mario in construction, but obviously there are some differences. Read the pattern through before starting to see where the changes are.

As always, if you run into any trouble, send me a message and I'll get back to you as soon as I can! :D


MATERIALS:

WW yarn in blue, green, white, peach (or a skin color) and small amounts of black and brown
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle
Felt in small amounts (white, blue, black)
2 small shirt buttons in yellow (or gold if you have it)
Sewing thread to match yarns and felts and a medium duty to heavy duty sewing needle


NOTES:

Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

I recommend reading through the pattern before beginning to familiarize yourself with the overall process of construction of the doll


HEAD (using peach):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (33)
Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (33)
Rnd 13: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff head firmly while shaping as you go along.
Rnd 15: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 16: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 17: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 18: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the head nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.


NOSE (using peach):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 4: dec over next 2 sc around (6)
F/O weave in tail. Stuff and shape.


EARS:

(using peach, make 2)

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (do not join, do not ch 1) turn. (3)
Rnd 2: 3 sc in first sc, 2 sc in remaining 2 sc. Do not ch 1, turn (7)
Rnd 3: sl st in each sc across (7)
F/O and tie the 2 ends together creating a slight curve (ear shape)


MUSTACHE:

(using black)

ch 12, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, hdc in next ch, 2 dc in next 2 ch, dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, slip stitch in last 2 chs.
F/O weave in ends. using sewing thread, pinch the middle of the mustache and secure with thread.


BODY (starting with blue):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6-14: sc in each sc around (40)
Rnd 15: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc. In last stitch, change to green yarn (32)
Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (32)
Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, (24)
Rnd 18-21: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 23: sc in next sc, dec over next 1 sc (12)
Stuff and shape body firmly. Leave neck opening open.


HANDS/ARMS (starting with white):

(hand/arm version with thumb, shown in photos)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 3-4: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs. sc in next 5 sc (10 sc and one 'thumb')
Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (hold 'thumb' down in the front of work and sc behind it) (10)
Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8)
Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
F/O white.
Attach green yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand.
Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10)
Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10)
Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across)
F/O weave in ends.

(alternate hand/arm version without thumb, not shown)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 3-6: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8)
Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
F/O white.
Attach green yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand.
Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10)
Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10)
Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across)
F/O weave in ends.


SUSPENDERS (using blue):

Row 1: ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and last ch (2)
Row 2-28: sc in both sc (do not ch 2 to turn, it makes for a straighter edge) (2)
F/O Weave in ends.


LEGS/FEET:

Legs (using blue, make 2)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: (working in back loops only for this round) sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 4-10: sc in each sc around. (16)
F/O stuff firmly and shape them both evenly. Don't close the open end.

Feet (using brown, make 2)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)
Rnd 4-10: sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 11: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc (8)
F/O stuff *lightly* and shape as desigreen. Weave end through final round and pull to close. Secure and weave in ends. Sew feet/shoes to 'closed' end of leg as shown (open end is attached to the body)


HAT:

(using green)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7: sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (52)
Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (52)
Rnd 9: sc in next 11 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)
Rnd 10: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc aorund (42)
Rnd 11: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)
Rnd 12: sc in next 25 sc, leave remaining 11 stitches unworked. The 25 stitches will become the 'front' of the hat which is a little higher than the back of the hat. F/O (weave in end)
Rnd 13: Attach yarn to center (stitch number 6) of the unworked stitches of the round 11 (not the last 25 sc you worked) and then sc in each sc around. When you reach the section with the 25 sc from round 12, just continue to sc in each one the same as working in unjoined rounds. When you reach the last of the 25 sc, simply continue on to the sc from round 11. (36)
Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (36)
F/O and weave in ends.

Brim/bill of hat:

Row 1: Beginning from joining stitch of final round, count 12 stitches over, attach yarn in 13th sc, ch 1 and sc in same stitch as joining. sc in next 11 sc, turn (12)
Row 2: (working in front loops only for this row only), sc in each sc across (12)
Row 3-6: sc in each sc across (12)
Row 7: dec over first 2 sc, sc in remaining sc across to the last two sc, dec over the last 2 sc (10)
Do not turn.

Ch 1. slip stitch evenly around brim (one sc in end of each row for the sides). When you reach the corner where the brim meets the hat, put 2 sc in that corner and resume slip stitching in each st around until you reach the starting point. Join to first sl st and f/o. weave in ends


HAT LOGO:

Using white:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
F/O weave in ends.

Cut an L from green felt (I recommend using paper first so that you can be sure you like the look and the size before cutting from felt, using the paper L as a pattern). Glue or sew the M to the center of white circle, sew the logo onto the center front of hat (be sure to center it with the bill of the hat)


SIDE BURNS:

(Using brown, make 2)

Row 1: Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch (2)
Row 2: sc in both sc (2)
Row 3: skip first sc, sc in last sc (1)
F/O weave in ends.


HAIR:

(using black)

Row 1: ch 14, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 3, * sc in next ch, ch 3 * (repeat from * to * to end of chain) end with sc in last ch.
F/O



ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.

Sew head to neck opening. Sew hat to top of head as shown, giving a slight tilt backwards on the head. Sew the 'hair' to the bottom of the hat at the back (see the photos). Nose is sewn centegreen on the face with the brim of the hat, but a little lower on the face. Mustache is sewn under the nose much like the hair was at the back of the head.

Ears should be placed just at the base of the hat on the sides of the head. Experiment with the placement so that you can be sure you're happy with how the ears look. Sideburns are sewn just in front of the ears as shown.

Arms are sewn to the sides of the upper body near the base of the head. If you made the version with the thumbs, be sure to pay attention to the position of the hands and that the thumb is in the right place. Hands should be slightly curved inwards. Suspenders are sewn on as shown (crossing them in the back). Add the two small yellow (or gold) buttons to the suspenders where they meet the 'pants'.

Legs/feet are sewn to the bottom of the body as shown.

Eyes are constructed from a larger oval shape in white, with a smaller oval shape in blue and another even smaller oval shape in black (see photos). I also like to add a tiny white circle of felt as a catch light to the eyes to help give some dimention.



Luigi and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (September 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.

Sunday, August 23, 2009

Mario Plushie


This pattern has been a long time in the posting. I've argued with myself over whether or not I should sell this one, but I just couldn't do it. I know it would sell well, and I surely do need the money, but the whole reason I began making these FAN ART plushes was because I know very well how hard it is to find good patterns to make things like these for the kids. I started out looking for patterns to make for my kids, and I found none that I could afford and so started making them myself.

I will mention though that if anyone feels inclined to make a donation for the patterns I offer for free here, I have a donation button on the right hand side of the page, the amount is up to you and every donation is deeply appreciated. I do have an Etsy shop where I sell some of my original designs, but I do not sell FAN ART patterns there, those patterns I always offer for free here, because I don't believe FAN ART should be shared on condition of payment, it's a labor of love.

Ok... the pattern. This is a more complicated pattern than most of my plushes on here. That's mostly due to the fact there are many smaller parts ... but they aren't really difficult, just different. I have checked the pattern many times and I feel like everything is there and is right, but if you run into anything that gives you trouble, just message me, I will be more than happy to help you. I try to check email at least three times a day if not more often.

All the pictures are clickable so you can see them in larger size and get a better idea of the details such as ears, sideburns, etc. I tried to get as many different views as possible.


MATERIALS:

WW yarn in blue, red, white, peach (or a skin color) and small amounts of black and brown
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle
Felt in small amounts (white, blue, black)
2 small shirt buttons in yellow (or gold if you have it)
Sewing thread to match yarns and felts and a medium duty to heavy duty sewing needle


NOTES:

Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

I recommend reading through the pattern before beginning, to familiarize yourself with the overall process of construction of the doll


HEAD (using peach):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 13: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff head firmly while shaping as you go along.
Rnd 15: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 16: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 17: dec over next 2 sc around (6)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the head nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.


NOSE (using peach):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 4: dec over next 2 sc around (6)
F/O weave in tail. Stuff and shape.


EARS:

(using peach, make 2)

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (do not join, do not ch 1) turn. (3)
Rnd 2: 3 sc in first sc, 2 sc in remaining 2 sc. Do not ch 1, turn (7)
Rnd 3: sl st in each sc across (7)
F/O and tie the 2 ends together creating a slight curve (ear shape)


MUSTACHE:

(using black)

Ch 7, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook.
Ch 5, slip stitch in next ch
Ch 4, slip stitch in next ch
Ch 3, slip stitch in next ch
Ch 3, slip stitch in next ch
Ch 4, slip stitch in next ch
Ch 5, slip stich in last ch.
F/O weave in ends.


BODY (starting with blue):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6-14: sc in each sc around (40)
Rnd 15: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around.  In last stitch, change to red yarn (32)
Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (32)
Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, (24)
Rnd 18-21: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 23: sc in each sc around (18)
Stuff and shape body firmly. Leave neck opening open.


HANDS/ARMS (starting with white):

(hand/arm version with thumb, shown in photos)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 3-4: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs. sc in next 5 sc (10 sc and one 'thumb')
Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (hold 'thumb' down in the front of work and sc behind it) (10)
Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8)
Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
F/O white.
Attach red yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand.
Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10)
Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10)
Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across)
F/O weave in ends.

(alternate hand/arm version without thumb, not shown)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 3-6: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8)
Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
F/O white.
Attach red yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand.
Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10)
Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10)
Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across)
F/O weave in ends.


SUSPENDERS (using blue):

Row 1: ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and last ch (2)
Row 2-28: sc in both sc (do not ch 2 to turn, it makes for a straighter edge) (2)
F/O Weave in ends.


LEGS/FEET:

Legs (using blue, make 2)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: (working in back loops only for this round) sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 4-8: sc in each sc around. (16)
F/O stuff firmly and shape them both evenly. Don't close the open end.

Feet (using brown, make 2)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)
Rnd 4-10: sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 11: dec over next 2 sc around (7)
F/O stuff *lightly* and shape as desired. Weave end through final round and pull to close. Secure and weave in ends. Sew feet/shoes to 'closed' end of leg as shown (open end is attached to the body)


HAT:

(using red)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (54)
Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (54)
Rnd 9: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (45)
Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (45)
Rnd 11: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)
Rnd 12: sc in next 25 sc, leave remaining 11 stitches unworked. The 25 stitches will become the 'front' of the hat which is a little higher than the back of the hat. F/O (weave in end)
Rnd 13: Attach yarn to center (stitch number 6) of the unworked stitches of the round 11 (not the last 25 sc you worked) and then sc in each sc around. When you reach the section with the 25 sc from round 12, just continue to sc in each one the same as working in unjoined rounds. When you reach the last of the 25 sc, simply continue on to the sc from round 11. (36)
Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (36)
F/O and weave in ends.

Brim/bill of hat:

Row 1: Beginning from joining stitch of final round, count 12 stitches over, attach yarn in 13th sc, ch 1 and sc in same stitch as joining. sc in next 11 sc, turn (12)
Row 2: (working in front loops only for this row only), sc in each sc across (12)
Row 3-6: sc in each sc across (12)
Row 7: dec over first 2 sc, sc in remaining sc across to the last two sc, dec over the last 2 sc (10)
Do not turn.

Ch 1. slip stitch evenly around brim (one sc in end of each row for the sides). When you reach the corner where the brim meets the hat, put 2 sc in that corner and resume slip stitching in each st around until you reach the starting point. Join to first sl st and f/o. weave in ends


HAT LOGO:

Using white:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
F/O weave in ends.

Cut an M from red felt (I recommend using paper first so that you can be sure you like the look and the size before cutting from felt, using the paper M as a pattern). Glue or sew the M to the center of white circle, sew the logo onto the center front of hat (be sure to center it with the bill of the hat)


SIDE BURNS:

(Using brown, make 2)

Row 1: Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch (2)
Row 2: sc in both sc (2)
Row 3: skip first sc, sc in last sc (1)
F/O weave in ends.


HAIR:

(using black)

Row 1: ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 3, * sc in next ch, ch 3 * (repeat from * to * to end of chain) end with sc in last ch.
F/O



ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.

Sew head to neck opening. Sew hat to top of head as shown, giving a slight tilt backwards on the head. Sew the 'hair' to the bottom of the hat at the back (see the photos). Nose is sewn centered on the face with the brim of the hat, but a little lower on the face. Mustache is sewn under the nose much like the hair was at the back of the head.

Ears should be placed just at the base of the hat on the sides of the head. Experiment with the placement so that you can be sure you're happy with how the ears look. Sideburns are sewn just in front of the ears as shown.

Arms are sewn to the sides of the upper body near the base of the head. If you made the version with the thumbs, be sure to pay attention to the position of the hands and that the thumb is in the right place. Hands should be slightly curved inwards. Suspenders are sewn on as shown (crossing them in the back). Add the two small yellow (or gold) buttons to the suspenders where they meet the 'pants'.

Legs/feet are sewn to the bottom of the body as shown.

Eyes are constructed from a larger oval shape in white, with a smaller oval shape in blue and another even smaller oval shape in black (see photos). I also like to add a tiny white circle of felt as a catch light to the eyes to help give some dimention.




Mario and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (August 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Darwin the Dinosaur


I wanted to show off another of my newer patterns that are up for sale in my Etsy shop. His name is Darwin and he's a dinosaur. He came about because my middle daughter wanted me to make her a chubby dino for her collection of stuffed animals. She helped me 'design' Darwin and we're both really pleased with how he evolved.

If you're interested in the pattern for Darwin, it's available at my Etsy shop. (Hey, us SAHM, mad crocheters have to make money somehow in order to keep buying yarn for this crazy obsession of ours LOL).

Fireflower


FireFlower is by request. I had tons of email requests for this one. I understand that in the newer games the FireFlower isn't in a box, but I needed to put it in one so that it would stand up. So I sort of combined several different evolutions of FireFlower for this plushie :)

The cube/box is done in rounds, like a ball which makes it a little different from most 'boxes'. It's done using the same technique as the cube in the Chain Chomp pattern, and is easy enough even for novice crocheters.

As always if you have any problems with the pattern or just have a question please feel free to either leave it in a comment or email me :).


FIREFLOWER

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in medium brown, white, yellow, orange, green
G hook
Fiberfill
Small amount of dark brown felt (or dark brown yarn)
Yarn Needle
Sewing thread to match colors of yarn and sewing needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't that important, as long as your hook and yarn choices result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing wont show through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in each round or row.



BOX/CUBE:

Box is worked in one piece. It's a little different than working a ball in rounds, the increases and decreases are different, but similar enough that it should be easy even for beginners with a little patience. I recommend joining your rounds, but if you are comfortable enough using continuous rounds, it's worth a try.

[Dec3 instructions: Instead of making a normal dec stitch, this is a decrease over 3 sc. In front loops only: insert yarn thru front loop of first sc, y/o pull through, insert through FL of second sc y/o pull through, insert through FL of third sc y/o pull thru, y/o pull through all loops on hook.]

Using med brown yarn:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring. join with sl st to first sc do not turn, continue as if for a ball (4)

Rnd 2: ch 1 3 sc in same stitch as join, and in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc of round (12)

Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join. *3 sc next sc. sc in next 2 sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in last sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round. (21)

Rnd 4: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 4 sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round. (28)

Rnd 5: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 2 sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 6 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 3 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round ( 36)

Rnd 6: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 3 sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 8 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (44)

Rnd 7: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 4 sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 10 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 5 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (52)


Rnd 8: (working in back loops only for this round) sc in each sc around, join with sl st. (52)

Rnd 9-21: (working in both loops now) sc in each sc around joining each round with sl st to first sc of round (52)

Rnd 22: (working in back loops only for this round) ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next 5 sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 10 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 5 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (44)

Rnd 23: (working in both loops again) ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next 4 sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 8 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (36)

Rnd 24: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next 3 sc. * Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 6 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 3 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (28)

You probably will need to begin stuffing cube at this point (if you haven't already), and continue as you progress. Take care to stuff so that the shape of a cube is retained with minimum bulging of the sides (some bulging is natural) See the picture for references.

Rnd 25: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next sc 2 sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 4 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (21)

Rnd 26: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 2 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last sc, Join with sl st to first sc of round (12)

Rnd 27: c1 Dec3 over next 3 sc around join with sl st to first sc of round (4).

F/O leaving tail for finishing off.

Using the blunt end of crochet hook, chopstick or eraser end of pencil, add any stuffing necessary to finish out cube shape. With yarn needle, weave the tail through the last 4 stitches of final round and pull to tighten. Tie off.

If you like, you can add some weighted material to the cube to make in heavier. FireFlower makes a cute paperweight.

FLOWER (make 2):

Beginning with white:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of next 3. Change to yellow yarn in last sc, F/O white yarn) (14)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in last 2 sc. (20)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in last 4 sc. Change to orange yarn in last stitch. F/O yellow yarn. (26)

Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in last 6 sc. (32)

Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (32)

F/O. Place the two flower sides together (right side facing out) and sew together using whip stitch. Add small amount of stuffing evenly across the flower before closing.

Using sewing thread (doubled) and needle, sew around the inside of each flower were the colors change going through both sides of flower (once around where white meets yellow, and once around where yellow meets orange) This will help to shape flower and keep stuffing from gathering in one corner later on.

Add two eyes by using some black yarn and making a couple of whipstitches in the center of the white part of one side (see photo)


STEM:

Using green:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring. (8)
Rnd 2-16: sc in each sc around (8)
Rnd 17: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (16)

F/O and stuff stem firmly. It will help if you have a chopstick or use the eraser end of a pencil to move the stuffing down and help shape the stem.

Sew the wide end of the stem to the back of the flower (see photos)

LEAVES:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (8)
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (12)
Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc (14)
Rnd 6-9: sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 10: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, dec over last 2 sc (12)
Rnd 11: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc (10)
Rnd 12: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc (8)

F/O. Flatten leaves and sew wider end to stem as shown in photos.

Sew flower to center of top of cube/box. This might require some extra stitches to help it stand up. If you stuffed the stem very firmly, it should be able to stand fairly well on it's own.

Cut 16 small circles from brown felt. Sew or glue to each corner of the sides of the cube/box as shown. If you prefer, you can use an F hook and dark brown yarn and make 5 sc in a magic ring, join and f/o, sew to the corners.




FireFlower and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (August 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.
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