All pages and patterns of this site can now be translated by using the 'Translate this Page' Gadget at the top of the right hand column of every page. Hopefully this will help many of you who are more comfortable reading in your native language. :D


All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Basic Stars

Click on picture to see larger view for better details.  (Yes, I know there is cat hair in the larger star...LOL.  Such is the life with cats).

I've not added a new pattern here for a while....and even though it's because I've been busy (holiday crafting,  household stuff, business stuff, etc)  I kinda felt guilty for not at least adding *something* for y'all to make use of for the holidays!

So,  I thought I might give you all a very simple pattern.  One that you can put to good use this month,  that you can easily make DOZENS of quickly - but it will also serve you well all year long in so many other ways.  So,  I'm giving you my basic 'star' pattern.

It's very easy and fast.  Anyone can make them quickly and even beginners will have excellent results!  These may appear plain and dull at first,  but consider all the many options you have with them (the actual instructions for making the stars are a bit more down the page in bold)

  • You can make many,  sew two of them together (back to back)  and add a nice hanger for tree decorations.  (see embellishment ideas further down for sprucing them up)
  • You can use them as a gift decoration next to the bow.
  • You can use them as applique's on t-shirts, blue jeans (my favorite) jackets, hats, purses,  anything you can imagine.
  • Sew two together  (but leave a small opening just before closing up)  stuff it with a little fiberfill, and your favorite potpourri or herb like rose petals or lavender to make little pomander or sachets for closets and drawers.
  • Make a pair of the smaller stars with cotton thread and steel hooks.  Sew on tiny beads or pearls and add earring hooks for a nice pair of earrings.   If you make earrings,  starch will help to stiffen them to hold their shape,  but remember they'll probably soften up if you wear them outdoors on a rainy day or if the humidity is just really high.

The possibilities are truly only limited by your imagination.

Allow me to give a few suggestions:

1.  If you're making tree or gift decorations:  Add glitter.  The best way to do this (so that your glitter won't be flaking off everywhere making a mess) is to get some clear-drying craft glue like Elmer's,  put a small amount on a plastic plate or something smooth.   Add a drop or two of water to thin out the glue just a little,  then add your glitter to the glue/water mixture and stir up well.   Using a small paint brush *very lightly* brush around your star with the glitter-glue mix to add a tiny bit of sparkle.

2.  If using it as an applique, starch and press out your star before you begin (if you used cotton or cotton blend).  Allow the starch to completely dry before you add the applique to your material.  If you're going to add seed beads or pearls to it,  do that before you sew the star onto your fabric.  Use a well matched sewing thread to apply the star,  and add a few stitches to secure the 'middle' of the star as well as the edges.     The starch will help to keep the star in shape while you sew around the edges but will wash out completely the first time you launder it so it will become as soft as the material around it.

3.  Also, if you choose to make an applique,  I HIGHLY recommend size 10 mercerized crochet cotton thread and a #7 steel hook  (or size 20 thread with a #10 or #12 steel hook)

4.  You can add a 'hint' of color or shine by using a single strand of sewing/embroidery thread  alongside your yarn.   This can result in some one of a kind, uniquely 'unplanned' color combinations and are especially good for those you're making for appliques.

Don't be afraid to try new ideas!  Use any yarn or thread you like,  any size hook (it works best if your hook/yarn combination result in an even, slightly firm but not overly tight stitch)  Make them in every color of the rainbow.  

They're so simple and fast to make,  even the novice crocheter can easily make a dozen or more of these while watching a single movie on tv  :D

The few I've shown here are just a beginning.  The smaller 5point star is made from a cotton blend of 'baby' yarn,  using a C aluminum hook.   The larger  one is made of just plain old acrylic yarn with a G hook.   The 4point star is also of the cotton blend baby yarn and G hook.

*** 5 POINT STAR ***

To begin your star,  make a magic ring,  chain 3 and then make 14 DC in the ring.   Tighten up that ring and join the last DC to the 3rd chain of your initial chain 3.  That gives you a total of 15 stitches in the magic ring.

*Chain 5.  Tug up on your last 'chain' to make it kinda tight  (this is going to be the sharp 'point' )  in the very next chain,  slip stitch,  then in the next chain,  make a SC,  then in the last chain, make a DC.   Skip 2 DCs of round 1,  and slip stitch into the third DC.  *

Now.. repeat from *  through * four more times for a total of 5 points.  On the last point,  make your final slip stitch into the very bottom of the first stitch of the first point.

Secure your yarn well, and weave loose ends into the 'back side' of your star.

DONE!   Now all you need to do is embellish it and make more!   


*** 4 POINT STAR ***

This is kind of like the 'classic' Christmas star.

To begin your star,  make a magic ring,  chain 3 and then make 11 DC in the ring.   Tighten up that ring and join the last DC to the 3rd chain of your initial chain 3.  That gives you a total of 12 stitches in the magic ring.

*Chain 5.  Tug up on your last 'chain' to make it kinda tight  (this is going to be the sharp 'point' ).  Slip stitch in the very next chain,  then in the next chain,  make a SC,  then in the last chain, make a DC.   Skip 2 DCs of round 1,  and slip stitch into the third DC.  *

Now.. repeat from *  through * two more times for a total of 3 points.  

For the final (longest) point:  Chain 8.   Tug up on the last 'chain' to make it tight (again,  this is the sharp point)  in the very next chain make a slip stitch.  SC in the next 2  chains,  HDC in the next 2 chains,  DC in the last two chains.  Skip the remaining DCs of the round and slip stitch into the base of the first point of the star (same as with the 5point star).

Secure your yarn well, and weave loose ends into the 'back side' of your star.

DONE!   Now all you need to do is embellish it and make more!   


This is a basic stars pattern,  I can't claim to have invented the star shape,  or the idea of crocheting them.   If you wish to use this exact pattern/explanation on your site,  either alone or as part of a larger pattern (say as the decoration on a purse, etc),  please at least include a link back to here.  Linda Potts (© 2011)




Thursday, November 24, 2011

Holiday Sale





I'm running a sale in all of the shops this weekend. 25% off all the patterns. At the Zibbet and Ravelry shops the prices are automatically reflected at checkout. On Etsy, you will need to enter the following code where asked during the checkout process to receive your discount: HOLIDAY2011


The shops are all linked just to the right of this posting.  Click on the Banner for the shop you prefer to be taken there.


( EDIT: At the request of quite a few folks... I'm extending the 25% off sale in all of my shops until Dec 31st!  Don't forget, for those 'last minute' gift ideas for those avid crocheters on your gift list... I have gift certificates at the Zibbet shop available in several different amounts. Look in the 'sections' of the gift certificate section.)

Have a great holiday season!

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Rico-POM


Well,  finally!  I got Rico done.  I know it took forever,  but I live in central Texas and with all the horrible heat we were having I found it very difficult to get motivated to pick up hook and yarn.   But that said,  here he is.

As always,  if you find any problems in the pattern or just have a question,  post it here or email me (or you can always find me on my FaceBook Page )



MATERIALS:
WW yarn black white and orange
G Hook
Fiberfill
15mm Google Eyes
Tapestry Needle
Sewing Thread and Needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important to this doll.  As long as your yarn, hook and individual tension result in a stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from showing through,  it's perfectly fine.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row.

I recommend reading through each set of instructions before beginning,  to familiarize yourself with the progression of that particular piece.

Pinning all the parts together before sewing is also highly preferable.  It allows you time to decide if you're truly happy with each part,  and make changes to individual parts before making them permanent.


BODY/HEAD

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)
Rnd 7-30:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Rnd 31:  Sc in next 10 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (44)
Rnd 32-33:  sc in each sc around  (44)
Rnd 34:  sc in next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (40)
Rnd 35-36:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Begin stuffing at this point,  stuff firmly and shape while stuffing.  Continue to stuff as you progress.
Rnd 37:  sc in next 8 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 38-39:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 40:  sc in next 7 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (32)
Rnd 41:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (28)
Rnd 42:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 43: sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 44:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 45:  dec in next 2 sc around  (8)
F/O.   Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the head.  Weave the tail through the last round of sc and tug to close up hole.   Secure and weave in ends


WHITE BELLY SECTION

Rnd 1-6:  same as for BODY/HEAD above  (48 sc at end of rnd 6)
Rnd 7-8:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Row 9:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Do not join, turn  (46)
Row 10: dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn  (44)

Repeat row 10 until 18 sc remain,  turn  (do not fasten off)

Begin shaping upper portion:

Row 1-2:  sc in each sc across  (18)
Row 3:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn  (16)
Row 4-5:  sc in each sc across  (16)
Row 6:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn   (14)
Row 7-8:  sc in each sc across  (14)
Row 9:  sc in first sc,  hdc in next sc,   dc in each of next 3 sc,  hdc in next sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  hdc in next sc,  dc in each of next 3 sc,  hdc in next sc,  sc in last sc
F/O  and weave in ends.

BEAK:
(using orange)

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 4 sc,  in next sc work  [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in next 4 sc,  in last sc work [hdc, dc, hdc]
Rnd 5:  sc in next 5 sc,  in next sc work  [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in next 6 sc,  in next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in last sc
Rnd 6:  sc in next 6 sc,  in next sc work  [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in next 8 sc,  in next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in last 2 sc
Rnd 7:  sc in next 7 sc,  in next sc work  [sc,  chain 4, slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in each of next 2 chains]  sc in next 10 sc,  in next sc work [sc,  chain 4, slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in each of next 2 chains],  sc in last 3 sc.
F/O and weave in end.

WINGS:

Row 1:  chain 5,  sc in second chain from hook and each remaining chain across,  turn (4)
Row 2-3:  sc in each sc across , turn  (4)
Row 4:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 5-16:  sc in each sc across  (6)
Row 17:  sc in each sc across to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (5)
Row 18:  sc in each sc across  (5)
Repeat rows 17 and 18 until 2 sc remain.  Dec over those 2 sc  (1)
F/O  weave in ends.  (slanted side of wing should be placed toward the 'back' of the doll when pinning to body)


FEET (make 4):

Using orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3:  * chain 6,  slip stitch in second chain from hook,  sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, trbl in last chain.  Skip one sc,  slip stitch in next sc * ,  repeat * to * twice more  (for three toes). Secure and F/O  weave in end  

Take two of the 'feet' and place them together, matching up the toes.   Using a long piece of the matching yarn and yarn needle,  whip stitch the two pieces together around the outside edges.   Secure and weave in ends.

LEG (make 2):
(On this particular character,  the leg portion is purely optional.  Very often you don't see his 'legs' on the show - only the feet,  but once in a while you do.  I'm including the instructions for the leg if you choose to do that part.  I prefered to attach the feet directly to the body,  as I didn't find the legs added anything to the doll's overall look)

Begin with orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  chain 6,  join to form a 'ring'.  Chain 1 and sc around change to white in last sc,  join to first sc of rnd.
Rnd 2:  Chain 1,  sc in same stitch as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc *  repeat from * to * around to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
Rnd 3:  Chain 1, sc in same sc as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc  *   repeat from * to * around .   F/O and secure tail,  weave in end.
(when working the leg,  you may have an 'odd' stitch left over in a round... this is ok,  just sc in that stitch and join to begin next round)

Sew the 'leg' portion to foot as shown  (orange section of leg is connected to 'foot')  

FINAL ASSEMBLY:  

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing.  This gives you the chance to make sure you're happy with all the parts and their placement before making it permanent.

The 'white belly' fits snugly over the bottom and is smoothed and stretch up to the 'top' of the head as shown in the photo.  

Beak is lightly stuffed and shaped - and is placed on the face area as shown.  Rico has a deep 'smile' usually,  and his beak is somewhat 'fatter' and appears slightly larger than the other penguins.  

Feet are sewn underneath as shown.

Eyes are glued in place with a strong fabric/all purpose glue  (I recommend E-6000  as it is very strong,  washable,  and will work on nearly every surface)

Wings are placed on the side of the doll as shown.

The 'hair' is simply several pieces of black yarn cut to approx 5 inches long.  Use your crochet hook to 'latch-hook' the hair pieces in a line along the top of the head as shown.  After placing them,  trim them down to length desired.

To make the 'scar'.  Simply use some sewing thread and a needle and add the scar as desired on the left side of his face across the beak.   His scar isn't a heavy one-it's almost not noticeable in most of the shows unless his face is shown just right,  so go easy on it.  :D

Rico and The Penguins of Madagascar are copyright DreamWorks and their respective creators.


This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September  2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 








Saturday, August 13, 2011

Just a Note...

I've started up a sister blog to this one,  with HINTS, TIPS and TRICKS for making crochet dolls and other general helpful information for crocheters. The name of the blog is OTH-HELP and I've just added the first of many TOPIC PAGES.

The first page is about 'stuffing' your work.   It's by NO means finished,  and if you have a question regarding any of the pages that isn't answered there,  email me at WolfDreamerOTH@gmail.com  and I'll answer your question in email,  and will also add that to the topic page  (or create a new topic page if necessary).

The sister blog (like this one)  is a constant work in progress,  so I'll be adding more helpful information as often as possible.  I have several more pages already in the works...but go ahead and either favorite the blog,  or join the 'friends' list if you want...  to keep up with new pages and announcements as they come up!

I hope these pages on the sister blog will prove helpful to all of you who are new to crochet doll making,  or have been around the block a few times,  but still would like a few helpful hints in your problems areas.

Be sure to post here also with your suggestions for topics also tips for me to add to existing topic pages :D


Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Having a sale in my shops!

I'm having a sale in all three of my shops...   30% off of all patterns!

Zibbet and Ravelry shoppers,  your savings will be reflected at checkout.   For Etsy shoppers,  please enter this code at checkout:   AUG2010

Zibbet: http://www.zibbet.com/Wolf​DreamerOTH
Etsy: http://WolfDreamerOTH.etsy​.com/
Ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/sto​res/linda-potts-designs

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Kowalski-POM


Ok,  here's the Kowalski doll...  I'm sorry that I only have this one photo,  but for some reason,  all the others came out terribly blurred - and the winds were giving us fits and he wouldn't stay upright LOL.  I'll try and get some more (and better) pics soon.  His feet are oddly positioned in this one,  but it's the only way we could get him to stand up in the winds  :D

For the most part,  he's very similar to the other two,  with a few differences such as height and he's a little skinnier and the wings are of course a bit longer.   I'm going to take a bit of a break before attempting to work on Rico,  my wrists are giving me a bit of trouble after working on these three so closely together,  but I won't take *too* long to get Rico up here as well.

As always,  if you find any problems in the pattern,  or just get confused,  let me know here and I'll get back to you ASAP.


MATERIALS:
WW yarn in black and white,  with a small amount of orange/yellow for beak and feet
G hook
15mm google eyes
Fiberfill
Yarn needle
Sewing thread in suitable colors to match yarn and sewing needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important to this doll.  As long as your yarn, hook and individual tension result in a stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from showing through,  it's perfectly fine.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row.

I recommend reading through each set of instructions before beginning,  to familiarize yourself with the progression of that particular piece.

Pinning all the parts together before sewing is also highly preferable.  It allows you time to decide if you're truly happy with each part,  and make changes to individual parts before making them permanent.

HEAD/BODY:

(using black for the body -  then the white belly part is slipped snugly over the body and sewn together)

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in the next 19 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 19 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (42)
Rnd 7-40:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.  Stuff firmly but don't overstuff.  Shape body while stuffing,  continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 41:  sc in next 19 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 19 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (40)
Rnd 42:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 43:  sc in next 8 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 44:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 45:  sc in next 7 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (32)
Rnd 46:  sc in each sc around  (32)
Rnd 47:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (28)
Rnd 48:  sc in each sc around  (28)
Rnd 49:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 50:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 51:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 52:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 53:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O  Add any stuffing needed to finish out shaping.   Weave tail through final round of stitches,  tug gently to close opening.  Secure end and weave in.

WHITE BELLY PIECE:

Using white yarn:

Rnd 1-6:  same as for body
Rnd 7-9:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Beginning with row 10,  you will no longer be working in rounds, but in rows.  At the end of each row turn your work so that you'll be working back across the stitches you just made.  I personally do not use a turning chain,  but make my first sc in the very last sc of the previous row.  This creates and stronger and cleaner edge for the stitches later.
Row 10:   dec over first 2 sc,  sc across to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn your work   (40)
Row 11:  sc in each sc across,  turn  (40)
Row 12-30:  repeat rows 10 and 11.  (until you have 20 sc across)
Row 31-32:  repeat row 10  (16)
Row 33-36:  sc in each sc across (16)
Row 37 and 38:  2 sc in the first sc of the row,  sc across remaining scs (18 at end of row 38)
Row 39-40:  sc in each sc across  (18)
Row 41:  slip stitch in first 4 sc,  sc across 10 sc,  turn  (leave remaining sc unworked)  (10)
Row 42-44:  sc in each sc across  (10)
Row 45:  sc in next 5 sc,  turn,  sc back across the 5 sc,  turn,  dec over first 2 sc,  sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Slip stitch down the sides of the rows just worked back to the row with 10 sc.  Sc in next five sc,  turn, sc back across the 5 sc,  turn,  dec over the first 2 sc,  sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Slip stitch back down to the row of 10 sc,  Slip stitch to secure and F/O.  Weave in your end.

EDGING:

Attach yarn to center back of piece.  Sc in same stitch as joining,  and sc evenly around the sides.  Work 3 sc in each of the  outside 'corners'  at the top of the piece.  Following the shaping around,  sc evenly back down the other side to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
F/O and weave in end.


FEET (make 4):

Using orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3:  * chain 5,  slip stitch in second chain from hook,  sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain.  Skip one sc,  slip stitch in next sc * ,  repeat * to * twice more  (for three toes). Secure and F/O  weave in end

Take two of the 'feet' and place them together, matching up the toes.   Using a long piece of the matching yarn and yarn needle,  whip stitch the two pieces together around the outside edges.   Secure and weave in ends.

LEG (make 2):

(On this particular character,  the leg portion is purely optional.  Very often you don't see his 'legs' on the show - only the feet,  but once in a while you do.  I'm including the instructions for the leg if you choose to do that part.  I prefered to attach the feet directly to the body,  as I didn't find the legs added anything to the doll's overall look)

Begin with orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  chain 6,  join to form a 'ring'.  Chain 1 and sc around change to white in last sc,  join to first sc of rnd.
Rnd 2:  Chain 1,  sc in same stitch as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc *  repeat from * to * around to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
Rnd 3:  Chain 1, sc in same sc as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc  *   repeat from * to * around .   F/O and secure tail,  weave in end.
(when working the leg,  you may have an 'odd' stitch left over in a round... this is ok,  just sc in that stitch and join to begin next round)

Sew the 'leg' portion to foot as shown  (orange section of leg is connected to 'foot')

BEAK:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 4 sc,  (hdc, dc, hdc) in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc, (hdc, dc, hdc) in last sc  (14)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 5 sc,  (hcd, dc, hdc) in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  (hdc, dc, hdc) in next sc,  sc in last sc  (18)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 6 sc,  (hcd, chain 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each of next 2 chains, hdc) in next sc,  sc in next 8 sc,  (hdc, chain 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each of next 2 chains, hdc) in next sc,  sc in last 2 sc.
F/O.  Flatten and shape beak as desired.  I did find that for Kowalski,  a tiny bit of stuffing (mostly in the center portion to fill it out better)  worked well for the overall design of this doll.

WINGS (make 2):

Row 1:  chain 5,  sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across , turn  (4)
Row 2-4:  sc in each sc across, turn (4)
Row 5:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc , turn (6)
Row 6-24:  sc in each sc across (6)
Row 25:  sc in first 4 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (5)
Row 26:  sc in each sc across  (5)
Repeat rows 25 and 26 until 1 sc remains.
F/O.  Weave in end.   (slanted side of wing should be placed toward the 'back' of the doll when pinning to body)

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing.  This gives you the chance to make sure you're happy with all the parts and their placement before making it permanent.

The 'white belly' fits snugly over the bottom and is smoothed and stretched up towards  the top of the head as shown in the photo.

Beak is placed on the face area as shown. I found with Kowalski that a tiny bit of stuffing in the beak gave it a shape more consistent with the character.    Feet are sewn underneath as shown.

Eyes are glued in place with a strong fabric/all purpose glue  (I recommend E-6000  as it is very strong,  washable,  and will work on nearly every surface)

Wings are placed on the side of the doll as shown and positioned as you like.   I used a little sewing thread to tack the wings in the positions you see in the pics here.


Kowalski and The Penguins of Madagascar are copyright DreamWorks and their respective creators.


This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (June  2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Private-POM


Ok,  second in the group is Private.  Cute, naive,  and the youngest of the team...  he keeps them all grounded.   He loves his 'Lunacorn' doll...even if the others kid him about it.

As always,  if you find any problems in the pattern... or just get confused,  let me know - I'll get back at ya ASAP :D


MATERIALS:
WW yarn in black and white,  with a small amount of orange/yellow for beak and feet
G hook
15mm google eyes
Fiberfill
Yarn needle
Sewing thread in suitable colors to match yarn and sewing needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important to this doll.  As long as your yarn, hook and individual tension result in a stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from showing through,  it's perfectly fine.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row.

I recommend reading through each set of instructions before beginning,  to familiarize yourself with the progression of that particular piece.

Pinning all the parts together before sewing is also highly preferable.  It allows you time to decide if you're truly happy with each part,  and make changes to individual parts before making them permanent.

HEAD/BODY:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)
Rnd 7-20:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (42)
Rnd 22-23:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 24:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 25-26:  sc in each sc around  (36)
If you haven't begun stuffing already,  now is a good time to begin.  Stuff firmly while shaping, but don't over stuff.    Continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 27:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 28-34:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Rnd 35:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 36:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 37:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 38:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any last little bit of stuffing that is needed to finish the shaping.  Weave the tail through the final round of sc and tug to close up the opening.  Secure and weave in the end.

WHITE "BELLY" PIECE:

Rnd 1-6:  same as for head/body
Rnd 7-10:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Rnd 11:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Do not join,  turn your work  ( you will be working in rows from now on).  (46)
Row 12-25:  repeat round 11 (until 18 sc remain)  (18)
Row 26:  slip stitch over first 3 sc,  ch 1.   Sc in same stitch as last slip stitch.  sc across to last 2 sc.  Turn   (14)
Row 27-28:  sc in each sc across  (14)
Row 29:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)
Row 30:  repeat row 29  (18)
Row 31-32:  sc in each sc across (18)
Row 33:  slip stitch in next four sc,  * sc in next 5 sc,  turn your work,  sc back across the last 5 sc,  turn,   sc in first sc,  hdc in next,  dc in next,  hdc in next,  sc in last sc.  Slip stitch down the side back to row 32 *.  Repeat * to *,  slip stitch to end of row.
F/O weave in end.

EDGING:

Attach yarn to center back of piece.  Sc in same stitch as joining,  and sc evenly around the sides.  Work 3 sc in each of the  outside 'corners'  at the top of the piece.  Following the shaping around,  sc evenly back down the other side to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
F/O and weave in end.

FEET (make 4):

Using orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3:  * chain 6,  slip stitch in second chain from hook,  sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, trbl in last chain.  Skip one sc,  slip stitch in next sc * ,  repeat * to * twice more  (for three toes). Secure and F/O  weave in end

Take two of the 'feet' and place them together, matching up the toes.   Using a long piece of the matching yarn and yarn needle,  whip stitch the two pieces together around the outside edges.   Secure and weave in ends.

LEG (make 2):
(On this particular character,  the leg portion is purely optional.  Very often you don't see his 'legs' on the show - only the feet,  but once in a while you do.  I'm including the instructions for the leg if you choose to do that part.  I prefered to attach the feet directly to the body,  as I didn't find the legs added anything to the doll's overall look)

Begin with orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  chain 6,  join to form a 'ring'.  Chain 1 and sc around change to white in last sc,  join to first sc of rnd.
Rnd 2:  Chain 1,  sc in same stitch as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc *  repeat from * to * around to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
Rnd 3:  Chain 1, sc in same sc as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc  *   repeat from * to * around .   F/O and secure tail,  weave in end.
(when working the leg,  you may have an 'odd' stitch left over in a round... this is ok,  just sc in that stitch and join to begin next round)

Sew the 'leg' portion to foot as shown  (orange section of leg is connected to 'foot')

BEAK:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 4 sc,  (hdc, dc, hdc) in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc, (hdc, dc, hdc) in last sc  (14)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 5 sc,  (hcd, dc, hdc) in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  (hdc, dc, hdc) in next sc,  sc in last sc  (18)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 6 sc,  (hdc, chain 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each of next 2 chains, hdc) in next sc,  sc in next 8 sc,  (hdc, chain 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each of next 2 chains, hdc) in next sc,  sc in last 2 sc.
F/O.  Flatten beak to shape.  Stuffing shouldn't be needed.

WINGS (make 2):

Row 1:  chain 5,  sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across , turn  (4)
Row 2-4:  sc in each sc across, turn (4)
Row 5:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc , turn (6)
Row 6-14:  sc in each sc across (6)
Row 15:  sc in first 4 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (5)
Row 16:  sc in each sc across  (5)
Repeat rows 15 and 16 until 1 sc remains.
F/O.  Weave in end.   (slanted side of wing should be placed toward the 'back' of the doll when pinning to body)

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing.  This gives you the chance to make sure you're happy with all the parts and their placement before making it permanent.

The 'white belly' fits snugly over the bottom and is smoothed and stretch up to the 'top' of the head as shown in the photo.

Beak is placed on the face area as shown.  Feet are sewn underneath as shown.

Eyes are glued in place with a strong fabric/all purpose glue  (I recommend E-6000  as it is very strong,  washable,  and will work on nearly every surface)

Wings are placed on the side of the doll as shown.


Private and The Penguins of Madagascar are copyright DreamWorks and their respective creators.


This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (June  2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Skipper


Cute and Cuddly Boys!

Ok.  I am a HUGE Penguins of Madagascar fan.  These guys I'm doing for me mostly...  I actually purchased the yarn to make all four of them.  This is of course only Skipper,  but the other three will be following in the next couple of weeks.   (Give me at least a week between, maybe more ...  I can't work too much or I'll blow out my wrists again and I don't want to do that)

The pattern might seem a little strange when you first read it through,  but just take it one part at a time.   The beak particularly might give you fits,  but just keep at it... it took me a while to get it too,  but the work is worth it  :D

If you find any problems in the pattern,  or if you just get totally confuzzled,  let me know and I'll do my best to help you out!  

MATERIALS: 

 WW yarn in black and white,  with smaller amount in a medium orange
G Hook
Fiberfill
Sewing thread and needle
15 mm Googly Eyes  (or similar eyes of your choice)

NOTES:

Gauge is not important for this item

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

This pattern has some 'different' shaping.  It's helpful if you read through each section before you begin,  to try and get a feel for how the shaping is going to progress.   Remember that most often,  the final shape of the piece won't be noticeable until the stuffing process is done.

HEAD/BODY:

With black:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in each of next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in each of next 6 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 4 sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  2 sc in each of next 4 sc,  sc in last 6 sc  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 7: Working in Back loops only for this round, sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 8:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 9:  Sc in each of next 9 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in each of next 18 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in each last 9 sc  (44)
Rnd 10-12:  sc in each sc around  (44)
Rnd 13:  sc in each of the next 10 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in each of the next 20 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in each of the last 10 sc  (48)
Rnd 14-18:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Rnd 19:  sc in each of next 10 sc,  dec over the next 2 sc (repeat decrease one more time),  sc in each of next 20 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  (repeat decrease once more),  sc in each of last 10 sc  (44)
Rnd 20-21:  sc in each sc around  (44)
If you haven't already begun stuffing ,  this is a good place to start.  Stuff fairly firmly,  but don't overstuff.   Continue to stuff and shape the body as you progress.
Rnd 22:  sc in each of next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc (repeat decrease one more time),  sc in each of next 18 sc,  dec over next 2 sc, (decrease one more time),  sc in each of last 9 sc  (40)
Rnd 23-32:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 33:  sc in each of next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in each of next 18 sc,  dec over next 2 sc, sc in each of last 9 sc  (38)
Rnd 34-39:  sc in each sc around  (38)
Rnd 40:  dec over next 2 sc around  (19)
Rnd 41:  dec over next 2 sc around,  sc in last sc  (10)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finalize shaping.  (Top of Skipper's head should be 'flat',  resembling a military style haircut)  Weave tail through last round of crochet,  pull to close opening.  Secure and weave in end.

WHITE FRONT SECTION:

Using white:

Rnd 1-8:  Same as for body 
Rnd 9:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 10: Slip stitch across first 4 sc. Ch 1,  sc in next sc.  Sc in each sc across to last 4 sc.  Turn work (leaving last 4 sc unworked)   (32)
Row 11-13:  sc in each sc across,  turn work at end of each row.  (32)
Row 14:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (30)
Row 15:  sc in each sc across  (30)
Row 16:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (28)
Row 17:  sc in each sc across  (28)
Row 18:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (26)
Row 19:  sc in each sc across  (26)
Row 20:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (24)
Row 21:  sc in each sc across  (24)
Row 22:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (22)
Row 23:  sc in each sc across  (22)
Row 24:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (20)
Row 25:  sc in each sc across  (20)
Row 26:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (18)
Row 27:  sc in each sc across  (18)
Row 28:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (16)
Row 29:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (14)
Row 30:  sc in each sc across  (14)
Row 31:  2 sc in the first sc,  sc in each sc across to the last sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)
Row 32:  sc in each sc across (16)
Row 33: 2 sc in the first sc,  sc in each sc across to the last sc,  2 sc in last sc   (18)
Row 34:  sc in each sc across  (18)
Row 35: Chain 2, 2 dc in same stitch as turning.  hdc in next sc,  sc across to last 2 sc.  Hdc in next to last sc,  3 dc in last sc.
F/O.  Weave in end.


Attach yarn to center of back of the piece  (the last 'round' before beginning working in rows).   Chain 1 and sc in same stitch as joining.  Sc evenly around piece to 'top' corner.  3 sc in corner,  sc in next 2 sc.  Chain 2,  2 dc in same sc,   hdc in next sc,  sc in each sc across to last 5 sc.  Hdc in next sc,  2 dc in next sc, chain 2,  sc in each sc to corner,  3 sc in corner stitch.  Continue to sc around the edge evenly.  Slip stitch to first sc.
F/O. Weave in end.

WINGS (make 2):

Row 1:  Chain 6,  sc in second chain from hook and each chain across, turn  (5)
Row 2-4:  sc in each sc across, turn  (5)
Row 5:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc, turn  (7)
Row 6-20:  sc in each sc across, turn  (7)
Row 21:  sc in first 5 sc of row,  dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (6)
Row 22:  sc in each sc across, turn  (6)
Repeat rows 21 and 22 until 3 sc remain in row
Dec over the 3 sc (1 sc left)
F/O.  Weave in ends.

FEET (make 4):

Using orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3:  * chain 6,  slip stitch in second chain from hook,  sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, trbl in last chain.  Skip one sc,  slip stitch in next sc * ,  repeat * to * twice more  (for three toes). Secure and F/O  weave in end   

Take two of the 'feet' and place them together, matching up the toes.   Using a long piece of the matching yarn and yarn needle,  whip stitch the two pieces together around the outside edges.   Secure and weave in ends.

LEG (make 2):

Begin with orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  chain 6,  join to form a 'ring'.  Chain 1 and sc around change to white in last sc,  join to first sc of rnd.
Rnd 2:  Chain 1,  sc in same stitch as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc *  repeat from * to * around to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
Rnd 3:  Chain 1, sc in same sc as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc  *   repeat from * to * around .   F/O and secure tail,  weave in end.  
(when working the leg,  you may have an 'odd' stitch left over in a round... this is ok,  just sc in that stitch and join to begin next round)

Sew the 'leg' portion to foot as shown  (orange section of leg is connected to 'foot')   

BEAK:

The instructions for the beak may seem confusing at first,  the increases are different than the 'standards'  because you're expanding the sides drastically, while keeping the top/bottom portions relatively even.  This will create a 'curve' shape and then on the last round,  you have to add the 'smile'  (or side portions of the beak).   If you get confused,  just take it one round at a time...  it may take you a few tries to get it right  (it did me too).  It does work,  it just might take a little practice to get it right.  I recommend working a little tight on the beak  if you normally crochet loosely.

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in each of the next 2 sc,  2 DC in the next sc,   sc in each of the next 2 sc,  2 DC in the last sc  (8)
Rnd 4:  sc in each of the next 3 sc,  2 DC in the next sc,  sc in each of the next 3 sc,  2 DC in the last sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  sc in each of the next 4 sc,  in the next sc work the following [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in each of the next 4 sc,  in the next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc]  (14)
Rnd 6:  sc in each of the next 5 sc,  in the next sc,  work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in each of the next 6 sc,  in the next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in last sc  (18)
Rnd 7: sc in each of next 7 sc,  chain 5,  slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, skip one stitch, slip stitch in next stitch,  sc in each of next 7 stitches,   chain 5,  slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, skip one stitch, slip stitch in last stitch,  slip stitch to join to first stitch of round.
F/O,  weave in end.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I recommend that you pin the pieces together before sewing anything,  to ensure that you're happy with the placement before making anything permanent.  The beak will need to be 'shaped'  as you pin...  by creating the 'scoops'  along the top of the beak,  and a slight 'smile' to the side portions as you pin.  Fiddle around with it till you're pleased with the overall look.

The white portion of the body fits over the bottom end of the black portion (the 'bowl' end of the white section should fit snugly over the bottom of the body portion).     The 'front' is stretched upwards towards the top of the head  (as shown).

The wings are placed on either side,   the sloped side of the wing faces to the back of the penguin,  with the flat end  attached to the body.  You can position the 'wings' in whatever position you prefer once they're attached to the body.

The feet/legs are sewn to the bottom,  with the feet pointing slightly outwards.  the legs should be fairly firmly stuffed ...  and if the stuffing seems to want to 'ooze' out while you're sewing the legs on,  just tuck it in as you go around.

For the Tail,  I just added a few satin stitches to the back side to give the illusion of a slightly pointed tail.  I used the same black yarn as for the body,  with a yarn needle.  

The beak is positioned as shown,  and sewn carefully to the white portion of the 'face'.  You'll need to 'create'  the scooped nose as you sew  (as you had pinned it on earlier).   I didn't find a need for any stuffing in the beak,  but if it helps you create the bridge of the 'nose' portion between the eyes,  then that's ok too.

The eyes are glued on fairly close to the point of the bridge of the 'beak'.   I used a simple glue stick at first,  just to temporarily place them until I was happy with them... then I used a permanent glue to adhere them after I had sewn all the other parts in place.

The 'brow' portion of the face is made by chaining 10 or 12  (depending on your tension),  and then slip stitch back across the chain.   Sew the brow into place as shown  (or to create the expression you like best)

Skipper and The Penguins of Madagascar are copyright DreamWorks and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (June  2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Azumarill


I made this doll right now for several reasons.  First off,  it's coming up to Easter,  and what more perfect of a pokemon for the Easter Baskets?  Part Easter Egg,  part Bunny --  and in it's shiny form,  it's a Yellow-Gold color - so both forms are perfect.   Won't he be adorable nestled down in that obnoxious fake grass snuggled up next to the Jelly-Bellies and the little yellow marshmallow peeps?

The other reason I wanted to make this one,  is that I felt like making a slightly easier pattern.  The last pattern  (Michaelangelo) was fairly complex - and I wanted a pattern that would be quick enough to make up a few for the kids' easter baskets :D

As always,  if you find any typos, mistakes or just get confused,  give me a holler....  I'll get right on it  :D

MATERIALS:


WW yarn in blue, white and small amount of black (for tail)
Fiberfill
Small bits of felt for eyes, mouth, ear insets and spots
G Hook
Tapestry/Yarn Needle
Sewing thread to match yarn and felt pieces

NOTES:

Gauge isn't terribly important here,  but your choice of hook and yarn should result in a tight stitch that won't allow the fill to show through.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

BODY:

Beginning with white yarn:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6-11:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 12:  working in front loops only: sl st in next sc,  hdc in next sc,  dc in next sc, hdc in next sc, *sl st in each of next 2 sc,  hdc in next sc,  dc in next sc,  hdc in next sc*  repeat from * to * around to final stitch,  sl st in last sc of round.   F/O white.  (the 'waves' you've created may want to curve back to the front for now,  that's ok.  (40)
Rnd 13:  If you look just behind the round you just worked,  you'll notice a 'line' of free loops  (the back loop that was not worked through).   Attach your blue yarn to one of these loops and sc in the same loop.  Sc in each remaining loop around (40)
Rnd 14-16:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 17:  sc in each of next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (35)
Rnd 18:  sc in each sc around  (35)
Begin stuffing about this point if you haven't already.  Stuff firmly without over stuffing.  Shape the body as you stuff - continue stuffing and shaping as you progress.
Rnd 19:  sc in each of next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 20:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Rnd 21:  sc in each of next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (25)
Rnd 22:  sc in each sc around  (25)
Rnd 23:  sc in each of next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (20)
Rnd 24:  sc in each sc around  (20)
Rnd 25:  sc in each of next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (15)
Rnd 26:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (10)
F/O.  Add any more stuffing needed to finish the shaping of the body.  It should be a nice 'egg' shape.   Weave the tail through the final round and tug to close opening.  Secure the yarn well and weave in end.   Using white sewing thread and sewing needle,  carefully sew the 'waves'  that are in front up to the blue section so that they're even and create the 'wave' effect desired around.  (see picture for help)

FEET:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 3-4:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 5:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc around  (8)
Rnd 6-7:  sc in each sc around  (8)
Flatten the foot  (foot is not stuffed) - sc through all layers across  (4 sc)
F/O.  Weave in ends

ARMS:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2-7:  sc in each sc around  (6)
Flatten  (stuffing is not necessary for the arms).  Sc through all layers across (3sc)

EARS:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 3:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Rnd 5-7:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 8:  Dec over next 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc around  (11)
Rnd 9:  sc in each sc around  (11)
Rnd 10:   Dec over next 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc around  (10)
Rnd 11:  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 12:   Dec over next 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc around  (9)
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 14:  Dec over next 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc around   (8)
Rnd 15:  sc in each sc around  (8)
Flatten ears.   Fasten off.  (Ears aren't stuffed).    Cut two pieces of pink felt to fit just 'inside' the ears (see photo for reference).  Pin in place and using sewing thread and needle  (or fabric glue)  sew or glue securely in place.

TAIL:

Using black yarn,  chain 34  (or any multiple of 11 + 1)   Sc in first chain from hook and next 3 chains.  * 3 sc in next chain,  sc in next 4 chains,  dec over next 2 chains,  sc in next 3 chains *  repeat * to * to end  (where exactly you end in the sequence doesn't matter much).   F/O and sew to bottom back of doll using one of the tails remaining.  Hide excess yarns  inside doll using crochet hook to pull the excess yarns inside of the doll.

BALL of TAIL:

Using blue:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4-6:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Begin stuffing here.  Shape as you go,  continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 7:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 8:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish the shape.  Just before you tug up the opening,  insert the other end of the tail,  pull tails to close opening and using yarn needle,  secure the opening and end of tail.  Weave in the loose end.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Feet are sew to bottom of body as shown in photos.  Arms are sewn to the side of body just above the 'wave' of the white section.

Ears are sewn to top of head as shown.   Face details are made by cutting out small ovals for eyes,  and the mouth shape from felt and gluing or sewing them on.  (tiny white bits of felt for the catchlights in the eyes are easiest glued where possible  a small dot of white fabric paint also works)

Cut various sized circles for the 'dots' across the body.  I didn't do the circles around the back of mine,  but you can if you like.   I'm sure in 'pokemon nature'  no two azumarill's dots are exactly the same :D


Azumarill and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.


This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (April 2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Thursday, March 10, 2011

TMNT Michaelangelo


Ok,  well I don't guess this guy needs any real explanation or introduction.   Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles just recently celebrated their '27th' anniversary as some of the most beloved and well-known characters in our world.   I had intentions of making this doll a few years ago,  but just kept putting it off for one reason or another....and finally just had to do it.

Those of you who are followers of my FaceBook Page saw the 'sneak peek' a few days ago,  and the response was, to say the least,  incredible.   Turtles are something most of us can relate to,  since they've been around for so long.   I hope that this doll and pattern will please the 'hardcore' turtle fans who have been there since the beginning through all their 'changes'....  since this doll was mostly patterned after the 'old-school' original series.

Having been a fan of TMNT since the beginning myself,   I'm most fond of the 'original' series - thus the reason this doll is made that way.   The basic pattern can easily be made to create all four of the turtles,  by simply changing the colors of the bandana and the weapons to represent the turtle of your choice.   If I had enough greens to make them all I would...  but I'll leave that up to all the wonderfully creative crocheters out there!  :D

As always,  if you find any typoes or mistakes in the pattern,  please let me know,  I'll correct them ASAP.



Mikey

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in choice of green (with smaller amounts of brown, tan and colors for bandana)
G crochet Hook
Fiberfill
yarn needle
Small scraps of white and black felt for eyes/mouth

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important,  as long as your yarn, hook and tension result in stitches that are even and don't allow the stuffing to show through.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

Magic ring instructions can be found easily by a websearch for 'crochet magic ring' .  YouTube also has some very good video instructions by searching for 'crochet magic ring' on YouTube.



HEAD:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6-10:  sc in each sc around  (35)
Rnd 11:  sc in next 10 sc,  2 sc in each of next 15 sc,  sc in remaining 10 sc  (50)
Rnd 12-13:  sc in each sc around  (50)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (40)
Begin stuffing here if you haven't already.  Stuff firmly,  without overstuffing,  while shaping the 'face' as you go.  Continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 15:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 16:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (20)
Rnd 17:  dec over next 2 sc around  (10)
Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (10)
F/O leaving a tail.  Finish adding any stuffing needed to shape head properly.  Weave the tail through the last row of 10 sc,  tug gently to 'close up' the opening.  Secure and weave in end.

BODY:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (21)
Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 6: sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 3 sc,  sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in each of remaining 3 sc  (34)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 16 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 16 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (36)
Rnd 8-9:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 10:  sc in next 15 sc,  2 sc in each of next 3 sc,  sc in next 15 sc,  2 sc in each of last 3 sc (42)
Rnd 11-20:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 15 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times), sc in next 15 sc, dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times)  (36)
Rnd 22:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 23:  sc in next 12 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times),  sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times) (30)
Rnd 24:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.  Stuff body firmly while shaping  but avoid overstuffing.  Continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 25:  sc in next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times),  sc in next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times)  (24)
Rnd 26:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 27:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the body.  Secure end and weave in.  Leave neck opening as is.

ARMS  (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3-6:  sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 7: dec over next 2 sc around  (8)
Begin stuffing at this point,  do not overstuff but stuff moderately firmly to shape the 'muscles' of the shoulder, upper arm and lower arm as you progress.
Rnd 8: sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 9-11:  sc in each sc around  (even)
Rnd 12: sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (8)
Rnd 13:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)
Rnd 14-18: sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 19:  dec over next 2 sc around  (5)
Flatten end,  sc across opening through all layers  (3 sc)
Rnd 20:  chain 3,  sc in second chain from hook and next chain,  slip stitch to next sc along 'top' of hand (rnd 19).   chain 3,  sc in second chain from hook and next chain,  slip stitch to next sc along 'top' of hand  - two fingers made.   Chain 3,  sc in second chain from hook and next chain,  slip stitch along 'side' of hand (between rnd 18 and 19) to create 'thumb'
F/O and weave end in.

LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  working in back loops only for this round,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Rnd 3-7:  (working again through both loops) sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 8:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
Rnd 9: 2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 10-15:  sc in each sc around  12)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 7 sc,  chain 7,  Join chain to first sc of this round.  (7 sc, 7 chs)
Rnd 17:  sc in each sc and chain around (14)
Rnd 18:  sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 19:  dec over next 2 sc around  (7)
F/O.  Weave in ends.
Stuff the leg (while shaping).  Stuff moderately firm without overstuffing.  'Hip' is either not stuffed  (flattened) or *very* lightly stuffed.   Leg is pinned to side/bottom of body as shown,  with 'hip' cape/flap to the outside and 'opening' at top of leg underneath.    Very small amounts of stuffing can be added to the cape at the 'hip' to provide more shape if needed.

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2-3:  sc in each sc around  (6)
Rnd 4:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 5-8:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 9:  Flatten 'foot',  sc across top through all layers  (6 sc).  Turn.
sc in next 3 sc,  turn,  sc in next 3 sc,  turn slip stitch across the 3 sc, and down the side to the main part of the foot,  slip stitch to next sc of row 9.   Sc in next 3 sc,  turn,  sc in next 3 sc,  turn slip stitch across the 3 sc, and down the side to the main part of the foot,  slip stitch to row 9  (between the two 'toes').
F/O, secure and weave in end.
(NOTE:  Feet in the doll shown were not stuffed,  just flattened.  If you wish to add a *very* small amount of stuffing to the feet to give them a little more 'size'  do this before you close the opening by sc across the top,  then proceed as is written from there)

Feet are sewn as shown to the bottom of the legs.  Make sure that you have the feet facing in the correct direction .  (I find that pinning the legs to the doll and then pinning/sewing the feet to the bottom of the legs is most helpful as it ensures you have the right direction on both of the feet,  and the best angle as well)

BELLY PLATE:

(using tan)

Row 1:  chain 6,  sc in second chain from hook and each chain across ,  turn  (5)
Row 2:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn  (7)
Row 3:  sc in each sc across  (7)
Row 4:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn  (9)
Row 5:  sc in each sc across  (9)
Row 6:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn   (11)
Row 7:  sc in each sc across  (11)
Row 8:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn    (13)
Row 9:  sc in each sc across  (13)
Row 10:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn  (15)
Row 11-24:  sc in each sc across  (15)
Row 25:   sc in first sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  slip stitch to next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in last sc
Row 26:   sc in first sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  slip stitch to next stitch,  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in last sc
Row 27:   sc in first sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  slip stitch to next stitch,  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in last sc
F/O.   Weave in ends.   Using brown yarn and yarn needle,  add the detailing to the plate as shown in photos.

SHELL:

(Using brown)

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 4 sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 5:  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 4 sc,  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (32)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (32)
Rnd 7:  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in next 12 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 4 sc,  sc in next 12 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (40)
Rnd 8:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)
Rnd 9-10:  sc in each sc around  (48)

SHELL RIM:

Rnd 1:  ch 6,  join to make ring,  sc in each chain around (6)
Rnd 2-?:  sc in each sc around (6 sc each round) until the tube will easily reach around the outside of the shell (the number of rounds will vary from person to person due to yarn, hook and tensions differences)  Tube does not need to be stuffed, but if you wish, you can VERY lightly stuff the tube to give it more rigidity.   When the tube will easily fit around the outside edge of the shell,  F/O and sew ends of tube together.  Pin and sew tube to outside edge of shell.   Shell will be stuffed when sewn to the back of the turtle.

ELBOW/KNEE PADS:

Elbow pads (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Do not fasten off,  continue with strap as follows:
Sc in next 2 sc, turn
Sc in 2 sc, turn
Repeat rows of 2 sc until strap will reach around arm at elbow  (exact number of rows will vary from person to person due to yarn, hook and tension differences).    F/O leaving tail.  Sew end of strap to opposite side of 'pad'.  Weave in ends.

KNEE PADS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 hdc in each sc around  (16)
Do not fasten off,  continue with strap as follows:
Sc in next 2 sc, turn
Sc in 2 sc, turn
Repeat rows of 2 sc until strap will reach around leg at knee  (exact number of rows will vary from person to person due to yarn, hook and tension differences)  F/O leaving tail.  Sew end of strap to opposite side of 'pad'.  Weave in ends.

BANDANA:

Using color of choice:

Chain 2.  Sc in second chain from hook,  turn.
Sc in sc,  turn
2 sc in sc,  turn (2)
Continue with rows of 2 sc for approx. 20 rows  (more if you want a longer tail on the bandana)
Next row:  2 sc in each sc across, turn  (4)
Continue with rows of 4 sc until this section of the bandana will just wrap around the head above the 'nose' as shown.
Next row:  Decrease over next 2 sc, twice, turn (2)
Continue with rows of 2 sc for the same length as before (2)
Decrease over next 2 sc, turn (1)
Sc in sc.
F/O, weave in ends.

"EYEBROWS":

Chain about 20  (check and see if you want more or less 'brow')   Place in the shape of the brows over the top of the bandana.  (this is probably best done after construction of the doll and eyes are in place so that you can see how much or how little 'brow' you want on your turtle)

BELT:

Chain 3,  sc in second chain from hook and next sc , turn (2)
Continue rows of 2 sc for length desired for belt.   Belt  goes around the shell,  so it's probably best to wait until doll is fully assembled before making the belt so that you can try it around the doll as you make it to ensure it's the length you want.

NUNCHUCKS:

(make 2)

Row 1:  Chain 11, sc in second chain from hook and each chain across,  turn  (10)
Row 2-3:  sc in each sc across, turn (10)
F/O leaving tail.  With yarn needle,  fold in half long ways and sew together with whip stitch.
Weave in tail.

Chain (make 1):

Chain approx 20 (or length desired).   Attach each end to one of the 'chucks'.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing to ensure you're happy with everything befoe making it permanent.

Head is sewn to top of body at neck opening.  Belly Plate is sewn to front of body.   Arms and legs are sewn to body positioned as desired.

Elbow and knee pads are placed on arms and legs as shown,  they can be tacked on with a few stitches if you want.

Eyes are made by cutting pieces of felt and sewing/gluing them to the bandana.  Mouth is made by cutting a piece of felt and sewing/gluing to the face as desired.  Facial expressions can vary from turtle to turtle to give them each their own personality.

The doll can be made to represent any of the Turtles,  by changing the color of the bandana, weapons and even facial expressions.


Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles and the character Michaelangelo are copyright/trademarked of their original creators.


This pattern is an original crochet pattern and is © by Linda Potts (March 2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not add it to any collection on cd/dvd, sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 
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