Hey y'all! I'm having a few issues with the layout/template here on the blog. It seems this one is not compatible anymore and so it periodically tries to change it. I'll do some work in the next week or so and change the template so if you have any issues, fear not, I'll have it back up and going in no time! Feel free to email me at WolfdreamerOTH@gmail.com if you need to access something and it doesn't seem to work!

All pages and patterns of this site can now be translated by using the 'Translate this Page' Gadget at the top of the right hand column of every page. Hopefully this will help many of you who are more comfortable reading in your native language. :D


All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Tuesday, October 16, 2012

On the topic of forums...

Like many of you, I enjoy talking to and hearing from others who enjoy the craft of crochet and knit as much as I do. To that end, I joined a forum site called Knitting Paradise (http://www.knittingparadise.com/ ).

After nearly a year
 there as a daily reader, I was privately contacted by the administration there, to remove the links in my signature as I was breaking their rules by not have return links on my blog and in my shop to their forums. So I removed the links, thinking the other users would be required to do the same. Weeks later, no one else had done this, so I contacted the administration again and asked why no one else was being required to do this and that I felt singled out, and was considering leaving despite the fact I truly enjoyed the forum.

The response I received? 'So leave then'.

While I truly came to like and admire the users of this site, I cannot recommend this forum site due to the lack of polite and professional administration. Their response to my inquiry leaves me to consider that the forums are run by children. A mature adult who was concerned about their site and site reputation, would not behave or respond in such a manner.

Beware the beasts, they are everywhere. *sigh*

Thursday, August 30, 2012

Enderman Plush




Well,  I finally got it done.  LOL.   Actually,  I had the doll done for quite a while,  but while moving things around and 'decluttering' my work room,  I put my notebook in a *safe* place while everything was topsy-turvy.   Of course,  I promptly forgot where I put it!   I finally found it and now I've got the pattern ready.

This pattern is a bit more complicated than some.  Not so much in the crochet,  but in the construction.   Those of you who have done the ChainChomp pattern,  will be familiar with creating a 'cube' form in crochet and this will be very familiar to you.

I do suggest reading through the ENTIRE pattern  (particularly the notes in the various sections)  to help you see how it will work out.   Take it all one step at a time and hopefully it will go easily for you.

The 'armature'  for the body and head are really fairly simple  (easier done than written out in detail  LOL).   But if you have any problems or questions,  please do feel free to post here or on the facebook page and I'll do my very best to find a different way to explain for you.

At the moment,  I have only the one picture of him.  Well honestly,  there aren't many other ways to view him...the back and sides are pretty much identical to the front...without the eyes.

All that said,  here's the pattern.  Have fun and again,  if you have problems,  ask and I'll do my best to clarify for you :D



MATERIALS:

WW yarn in black (one full 7 oz skein for most people) and a tiny amount of purple yarn (or purple felt) for the eyes.
Fiberfill
Plastic or cardboard (see the notes)
Tapestry Needle
Some kind of small weights (I used smooth riverstones in sizes that fit – you'll need one for each leg)

NOTES:

Please read through the entire pattern before you begin. It's helpful to understand how the pattern will come together before you begin, so you will understand the individual steps. I have tried to explain as clearly as I can all the various steps.

While it's not necessary, you will probably want to use plastic or cardboard to give your shelf-sitter a more defined 'cube' shape. You can use recycled plastic from pastry boxes or anything else that is the right size, or you can use plastic canvas sheets cut to size if you happen to have those. Cardboard will also work but remember, if you use cardboard, your shelf sitter won't be washable (you'll have to clean him with a damp rag and be careful with spills around him) but if he's up on a shelf then he should be ok.

Gauge isn't very important for this project, as long as your yarn, hook and tension produce a stitch that's firm, even and doesn't allow the stuffing to show through too much (with black yarn, you going to have SOME show-through, that cannot be helped mostly due to the contrast of the white filler against the dark yarn)

Cube is worked in one piece. It's a little different than working a ball in rounds, the increases and decreases are different, but similar enough that it should be possible even for beginners with a little patience. I recommend joining your rounds to keep your cube in shape. Using continuous rounds is likely going to cause your cube to become oddly shaped.

First sc of every round is ALWAYS placed in the same sc as the joining slip stitch from previous round.

SPECIAL STITCH:

dec3 - Decrease 3. Insert hook into first sc and draw up loop, insert hook into next sc and draw up a loop, insert hook into third sc and draw up a loop. YO and draw yarn through ALL loops on hook.

BODY:

NOTE: After you have completed the bottom 'square' of your cube (Rnd 6) use that square to trace a square on your plastic or cardboard (if you are using this option) and cut it out a little larger than your trace lines. After you have completed several of the following even rounds (Rnds 7-28) fit that piece of plastic or cardboard into the bottom if you need to trim it down to fit SNUGLY into the bottom (giving it a more square shape). Once you're happy with it, trace that piece and cut one more (for the top).

After you have completed round 28, use the 'side' of your elongated cube to trace onto plastic or cardboard an outline. Again cut it out slightly larger that your trace, fit this piece in and if necessary trim to fit snugly into one side. Once you're comfortable with the size, use that piece to trace and cut three more 'side' pieces. Tape these pieces together to form a 'square tube' Tape the bottom piece to this tube and fit into the crochet piece and make any adjustments you need to make it fit snugly and better define the overall shape.

Stuff evenly and firmly inside of your plastic or cardboard 'tube' while the tube is inside of your crochet piece. Don't overstuff it but do make sure it's even and 'firm'. Tape the top square down to complete the 'inside' of your body piece.

You will be working 'over' this structure as you decrease the body crochet piece. It may seem awkward and difficult at first, but the more rows you complete the easier it will become. Take your time and it will come together for you.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring, join with sl stitch and chain 1 (8)
Rnd 2. Sc in same sc as join, 3 sc in next sc (corner), * sc in next sc, 3 sc in next * repeat * to * twice more. Join with sl st and chain 1 (16)
Rnd 3: Sc in first 2 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (24)
Rnd 4: Sc in first 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 2 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (32)
Rnd 5: Sc in first 4 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 3 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (40)
Rnd 6: Sc in first 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 4 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (48)
Rnd 7-28: sc in each sc around, join with slip stitch and chain 1 (48)
Rnd 29: Sc in first 5 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 9 sc, dec3, sc in next 9 sc, dec3, sc in next 9 sc, dec3, sc in last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (40)
Rnd 30: Sc in first 4 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 7 sc, dec3, sc in next 7 sc, dec3, sc in next 7 sc, dec3, sc in last 3 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (32)
Rnd 31: Sc in first 3 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (24)
Rnd 32: Sc in first 2 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in last sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (16)
Rnd 33: Sc in first sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next sc, dec3, sc in next sc, dec3, sc in next sc, dec3. Join with sl st to first sc (8)
F/O leaving a tail. Weave that tail through the last 8 sc and tug gently to close the small opening.  Secure and weave in loose end.

HEAD:

NOTE: Follow the same general instructions as for body for creating your plastic/cardboard pieces. The sizes will be a little different, but the procedure is the same.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring, join with sl stitch and chain 1 (8)
Rnd 2. Sc in same sc as join, 3 sc in next sc (corner), * sc in next sc, 3 sc in next * repeat * to * twice more. Join with sl st and chain 1 (16)
Rnd 3: Sc in first 2 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (24)
Rnd 4: Sc in first 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 2 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (32)
Rnd 5: Sc in first 4 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 3 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (40)
Rnd 6: Sc in first 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 4 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (48)
Rnd 7: Sc in first 6 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 5 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (56)
Rnd 8: Sc in first 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 13 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 13 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 13 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 6 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (64)
Rnd 9: Sc in first 8 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 15 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 15 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 15 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 7 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (72)
Rnd 10-28: sc in each sc around (72)
Rnd 29: Sc in first 8 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 15 sc, dec3, sc in next 15 sc, dec3, sc in next 15 sc, dec3, sc in last 7 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (64)
Rnd 30: Sc in first 7 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 13 sc, dec3, sc in next 13 sc, dec3, sc in next 13 sc, dec3, sc in last 6 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (56)
Rnd 31: Sc in first 6 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 11 sc, dec3, sc in next 11 sc, dec3, sc in next 11 sc, dec3, sc in last 5 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (48)
Rnd 32: Sc in first 5 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 9 sc, dec3, sc in next 9 sc, dec3, sc in next 9 sc, dec3, sc in last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (40)
Rnd 33: Sc in first 4 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 7 sc, dec3, sc in next 7 sc, dec3, sc in next 7 sc, dec3, sc in last 3 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (32)
Rnd 34: Sc in first 3 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (24)
Rnd 35: Sc in first 2 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in last sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (16)
Rnd 36: Sc in first sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next sc, dec3, sc in next sc, dec3, sc in next sc, dec3. Join with sl st to first sc (8)
F/O leaving a tail. Weave that tail through the last 8 sc and tug gently to close the small opening.  Secure and weave in loose end.

LEGS (make 2):

NOTE: I did not use any plastic or cardboard for the legs or arms. It's not required and I think the slightly 'rounded' look to the arms and legs is a bit more charming than the look I got with the more 'squared' look.

Stuff the legs as you progress. (beginning somewhere about rnd 9 or so) They are quite long and thin, and will become very difficult to stuff if you don't start as soon as you see enough room to begin adding your stuffing. As always, when stuffing, shape the piece as you go and don't 'over' stuff.

With the legs, add whatever weight material you have chosen early on (but make sure the weight material is 'surrounded' by stuffing material to keep the integrity of the overall appearance. Don't add TOO much weight or it will pull the doll off of the shelf when you sit it there.

LOWER LEG:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring, join with sl stitch and chain 1 (8)
Rnd 2. Sc in same sc as join, 3 sc in next sc (corner), * sc in next sc, 3 sc in next * repeat * to * twice more. Join with sl st and chain 1 (16)
Rnd 3: Sc in first 2 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (24)
Rnd 4-34: sc in each sc around (24)

At this point, add any stuffing to come to the top of opening. Flatten your opening and sc across the top (through both layers). You should have 12 sc across the top now.

Chain 1 and turn, and sc evenly across the row (12)

Now turn the work again to work a new row. Working in the FRONT LOOPS ONLY sc across to the end. Turn the work as if to work a new row (do not chain 1). You should see the unworked loops you just left are now in the front. Working across in these 'free' loops, sc across to the other end. Slip stitch the last sc to the first sc. You should now have 24 sc in two 'rows'. This is the beginning of the upper leg. Don't fasten off.

UPPER LEG:

Rnd 1-10: sc in each sc around (24)
F/O and stuff upper leg portion.


ARMS (make 2):

Stuff the arms as you go along, like the legs, they are long and thin and need to be stuffed as you go. Be mindful of keeping the two arms approximately the same size as you stuff.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring, join with sl stitch and chain 1 (8)
Rnd 2. Sc in same sc as join, 3 sc in next sc (corner), * sc in next sc, 3 sc in next * repeat * to * twice more. Join with sl st and chain 1 (16)
Rnd 3: Sc in first 2 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (24)
Rnd 4-33: sc in each sc around.
Rnd 34: Sc in first 3 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (24)
Rnd 35: Sc in first 2 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in last sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (16)
Rnd 36: Sc in first sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next sc, dec3, sc in next sc, dec3, sc in next sc, dec3. Join with sl st to first sc (8)

Add any stuffing needed to finish the shape of the arm and then F/O leaving a tail. Weave the tail through the final 8 sc and tug gently to close. Secure and weave in end.

ASSEMBLY:

I recommend first pinning all the pieces together securely and 'testing' to see that you have everything positioned as you want it. Then sew the pieces together. Placement is rather simple for this doll. (See photos for placement)

For the eyes. Get your purple yarn, chain 8, DC in third chain from hook and each chain across.  F/O. (You may want to make the eyes larger or smaller, this is purely up to you :D) Alternately, you can cut two eyes from purple felt if you have it.

Sew the eyes to the face as shown.

Now ... sit your sitter on the shelf of your choice and and never look him directly in the eyes!

Enderman and MineCraft are copyright of their original creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (August 2012). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 


Saturday, June 30, 2012

Terriormon Plushie



Well,  I took a bit of a detour.  Digimon are big around this house,  and Terriormon is first up.  This doll is probably going to require two skeins of white (but you should have left overs)  and about half a skein of the green color.

I hope to get some other digimon characters done too, it's a nice change from the Pokemon (although I still have plans to make some more of those, don't worry!).

If you have any problems with the pattern,  post or email me,  I'll get back with you asap  (and as always,  if you find an issue with the pattern,  which can happen,  let me know so I can fix it  :)



MATERIALS:

WW yarn in (2 skeins)white and (1 skein)medium green
G Hook
Fiberfill
Felt in black, dark red and pink (with tiny scraps for catchlights in the eyes)
Sewing needle and thread
Fabric Glue (optional)

NOTES:

Gauge isn't terribly important to this project, as long as your choice of yarn, hook and individual tension result in a stitch that is fairly firm and doesn't allow the fiberfil to show through

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

It's highly recommended that you read through the pattern completely before beginning to familiarize yourself with the entire process.

BODY

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat * to * around (24)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat * to * around (32)
Rnd 5: *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat * to * around (40)
Rnd 6: *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat * to * around (48)
Rnd 7-20: sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 21: * sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat * to * around (40)
Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (40)
If you haven't started stuffing yet, do so now. Stuff firmly and shape body as you progress. Continue to stuff firmly and shape as you go along.
Rnd 23: * sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat * to * around (32)
Rnd 24: sc in each sc around (32)
Rnd 25: * sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat * to * around (24)
Rnd 26: sc in each sc around (24)
F/O and finish stuffing (slightly overstuff neck opening to prevent sagging later) Weave in ends (neck opening is not closed)


HEAD

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat * to * around (24)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat * to * around (32)
Rnd 5: *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat * to * around (40)
Rnd 6: *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat * to * around (48)
Rnd 7: * sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc * repeat * to * around (56)
Rnd 8-18: sc in each sc around (56)
Rnd 19: * sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat * to * around (48)
If you haven't started stuffing yet, do so now. Stuff firmly and shape the head as you progress. Continue to stuff firmly and shape as you go along.
Rnd 20: * sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat * to * around (40)
Rnd 21: * sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat * to * around (32)
Rnd 22: * sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat * to * around (24)
Rnd 23: * sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat * to * around (16)
F/O and add any stuffing needed to firmly shape the head. Pin neck opening of head to the slightly overstuffed neck opening of the body.

FEET/LEGS:

Beginning with the green:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (repeat twice more) (9)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (repeat twice more) Change to white yarn in last sc of round.(12)
Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (repeat twice more) (15)
Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (15)
Rnd 7: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (repeat twice more) (18)
Begin 'hip' structure (working now in rows)
Row 1: sc in each of next 9 sc (leave remaining sc unworked). Chain 1 and turn (9)
Row 2: dec over first two sc, sc across to final two sc, dec over last two sc. Chain 1 and turn (7)
Row 3: dec over first two sc, sc across to final two sc, dec over last two sc. Chain 1 and turn (5)
Row 4: dec over first two sc, sc across to final two sc, dec over last two sc. Chain 1 and turn (3)
F/O. Stuff firmly while shaping. Weave in ends.

ARMS:

Beginning with the green:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (repeat twice more) (9)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (repeat twice more) Change to white yarn in last sc of round.(12)
Rnd 4-12: Sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 13: HDC in each of next 6 sc. Leave all remaining sc unworked. (6)
F/O. Stuff lightly. (arms shouldn't be stuffed too firmly or they won't position properly). Weave in ends.

KERCHIEF:

Chain 26. Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across (25)
Turn your work and slip stitch back across 6 sc. Chain 1 and sc in same stitch as last slip stitch. Sc in each sc across until there are six sc left. Leave those final six sc's unworked. Chain 1 and turn.

Dec over first 2 sc of row. Sc across to end of row. Chain 1 and turn.

Repeat last row till two sc remain. Dec over final 2 sc.

F/O and weave ends.

NOTE: It is possible you will need to adjust the number of starting chains to accommodate the neck space of your doll (by chaining more or less). It's helpful to pin the arms in place and 'test' your kercheif before fastening off the yarn. Everyone crochet's a little differently, so you may need to adjust this portion to fit your tension/style of crochet.

EARS (make 2):

Staring with white:

Rnd 1: Chain 26. Join chain to form a ring (being careful not to twist your chain). Sc in each chain around, join with slip stitch to first sc. (26)
Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (26)
Rnd 3: sc in each of next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in each of next 12 sc, 2 sc in last sc of round (28)
Rnd 4-6: sc in each sc around (28)
Rnd 7: sc in each of next 13 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in each of next 13 sc, 2 sc in last sc of round (30)
Rnd 8-10: sc in each sc around (30)
Rnd 11: sc in each of next 14 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in each of next 14 sc, 2 sc in last sc of round (32)
Rnd 12-14: sc in each sc around (32)
Rnd 15: sc in each of next 15 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in each of next 15 sc, 2 sc in last sc of round (34)
Rnd 16-18: sc in each sc around (34)
Rnd 19: sc in each of next 16 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in each of next 16 sc, 2 sc in last sc of round (36)
Rnd 20-42: sc in each sc around ; change to green in last sc of round 42 (36)
Rnd 43-46: sc in each sc around (36)
Do not fasten off and ears are not stuffed:

Begin points:

1: Sc in next 6 sc. Working on other side of 'opening', sc in the 6 sc immediately opposite of the 6 you just did (essentially, the last sc in the round). Slip stitch to first sc (12)
2: sc in each sc around (12)
3: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc (10)
4: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8)
5: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc (6)
6: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc (4)
7: Dec over 2 sc, dec over 2 sc (2)
8: Dec over last two remaining sc. 
F/O and weave in end.

Next 2 points :

Attach yarn immediate to the left of base row of the previous point. Repeat rounds 1-8 of first point.


STRIPES FOR EARS (make four):

Chain 13, 5 HDC in 3rd chain from hook and each chain to last chain. 5 HDC in last chain. Working back down the opposite side of the foundation chain, HDC in each free loop. Slip stitch to first HDC of Round.
F/O and weave in ends

Place and pin the stripes to the outer sides of the ears as shown. When pleased with placement, sew securely in place. (I recommend using sewing thread and needle to prevent unwanted bulk around edges)


HORN:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)
F/O.

TAIL:

Row 1: Chain 6. sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across (5)
Row 2: dec over first 2 sc, sc across (4)
Row 3: dec over first 2 sc, sc across (3)
Row 4: dec over first 2 sc, sc across (2)
Row 5: dec over the remaining 2 sc (1)
F/O. Weave in ends.

ASSEMBLY:

Pin all parts together as shown (or as preferred). When fully satisfied with placement of parts, securely sew all parts together.   The tail is placed in the place tails normally go,  LOL.  I just wasn't able to get a picture of his backside.

Cut pieces of felt for face features and sew (or glue) into place.

Cut long, thin strips of felt that are slightly wider at one end. Glue (or sew) three of these to each foot/hand for the claws. Trim to length desired. (widest end should be the part that's glued or sewn to the foot/hand part)

Using needle and dark brown or black thread, whipstitch several times for nose.

DIGIMON and TERRIORMON are copyright of their original creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (June 2012). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 


Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Emolga Plush


Well it took me forever to get this pattern typed out and posted here....  too much going on and not nearly enough 'spare' time LOL.

As always,  I'm not entirely happy with the face  (I always wish I could do the faces better).  The pictures don't show the tail structure,  something happened to the camera and the other pics we took of the back got corrupted,  but I'll get the kids to get some better pics of the back and tail and add them here ASAP.

The pattern is a little different when it comes to the 'wings'  it's not an 'exact' pattern,  it's just a set of basic instructions --  because every Emolga is going to need a slightly different size wing to fit properly.  Please read through that part completely before beginning so that you'll have a pretty good idea of how it should work.

I'm REALLY hoping to get another doll made soon,  now that the taxes are behind us (whew),  my daughter's birthday will be past us as well....and garden planting season is winding down a bit....I HOPE to have more of my time for myself  LOL

As usual,  if you find anything wrong in the pattern,  or just have a question,  please feel free to either post here, or send me a quick email at WolfDreamerOTH (at) gmail.com.




Materials:

WW Yarn in white, black and yellow
Size 6 hook
Fiberfill
Small scraps of felt in black (eyes), white (ear inset and eyes) and yellow (cheek patches)

NOTES:

Gauge is not important for this project, as long as your choice of yarn, hook size and individual tension result in a fairly firm fabric.

Some of the parts (wing span) may require adjustment on your part. Since everyone crochets slightly different tension and this, combined with different brands of yarn and stuffing may result in you needing to shorthen or lengthen the wing to fit your doll properly.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of the instructions for each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row (to give you something against which to check your work for accuracy)


BODY:

(using white yarn)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in a magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: *sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (24)
Rnd 4: *sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (32)
Rnd 5: *sc in the next 3 sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (40)
Rnd 6: *sc in the next 4 sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (48)
Rnd 7: *sc in the next 5 sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (56)
Rnd 8-16: sc in each sc around (56)
Rnd 17: *sc in next 12 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (52)
Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (52)
Rnd 19: *sc in next 11 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (48)
Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (48)
(if you haven't begun stuffing yet, now is a good time to begin. Stuff body firmly and shape while stuffing. Continue stuffing and shaping as you progress)
Rnd 21: *sc in next 10 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (44)
Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (44)
Rnd 23: *sc in next 9 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (40)
Rnd 24: sc in each sc around (40)
Rnd 25: *sc in next 8 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (36)
Rnd 26: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 27: *sc in next 5 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (30)
Rnd 28: sc in each sc around (30)
Fasten off (F/O) your yarn, weave in your end. Add a little extra stuffing at the neck opening. You want some stuffing 'bulging' out of the opening, so that when you place the head on the neck opening it will create a firm join and will be less likely to 'flop' at the neck.


HEAD:

Beginning with white yarn:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (18)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (24)
Rnd 5: *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (30)
Rnd 6: *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (36)
Rnd 7: *sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (42)
Rnd 8: *sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (48)
Rnd 9: *sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (54)
Rnd 10: sc in each sc around, change to black yarn in last stitch of round (54)
Rnd 11-18: sc in each sc around (54)
Rnd 19: *sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (48)
Rnd 20: *sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (42)
(begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already, stuff firmly and shape as you stuff. Continue to stuff and shape as you progress)
Rnd 21: *sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (36)
Rnd 22: *sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (30)
Rnd 23: *sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (24)
Rnd 22: *sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (18)
Rnd 21: *sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (12)
F/O. Add any stuffing that may be needed to finish shaping the head. Weave the tail through the last round of sc, tug up gently to close the opening completely. Secure the yarn and weave in your ends.

Hand/Arms (make 2)

Rnd 1: Ch 6. Sc in second sc from hook and in each sc across (you should have 5 sc at this point), now turn your work so that the bottom of the chain is now facing up and sc in the 'free' loop of each chain across. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc . (10 sc in an 'elongated' round)
Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 3: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)
Rnd 4-7: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 8: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)
Rnd 9-10: sc in each sc around.
F/O and stuff arm evenly and firmly. Weave in end.

Hand:

On the closed end of the arm (at rnd 1) attach your yarn to one corner of the end. Chain 2. *hdc, chain 1, sc in next place on the 'hand' part of arm; repeat from * twice more – placing your final sc on the 'edge' of the hand portion of the arm (so that the fingers are 'evenly' spaced across)
F/O and weave in end

FEET:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3-8: sc in each sc around (12)
F/O. Feet are flattened and generally don't need any stuffing (if you wish to have slighter 'rounder' shaped feet, you can VERY lightly stuff the feet before you add them to the body portion of the doll.

WINGS:

Here's where it gets a little fussy. LOL. You will very likely need to 'judge' the size/length of this piece so that it will fit your Emolga properly. I'm giving you 'general' instructions here for this part, but you will need to periodically hold the piece up next to the doll (with arms/feet/head pinned securely in place) to make sure it will fit correctly. BE SURE to write down how many sc across you end up using, and how many rows you crochet down and how many decrease rows you make so that your yellow side can be made the same.

Begin with black yarn. Chain approx 40 (check up against your doll to ensure that this chain reaches easily from fingertip to fingertip. If you need, add more chains or remove some to get the fit right)

Sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across. Turn and work one more row evenly. At this point, check the length up against the doll again for fit (the first few rows can slightly alter the length of your piece so this is just a safety check to prevent you from doing much more work before you might need to start again to get the fit right)

Once you're happy with the length of this piece, continue working back and forth evenly until the piece when placed at the based of the head and across the arms, is nearly 1 and a half inches from the bottom of the body portion of the doll.

On next row, dec over next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc again and then sc evenly across to last 4 sc. Dec twice and turn.

(Don't forget to make notes about how many rows/decrease rows etc you need for the next part)

Repeat that row about twice more (you may need to add another to reach the bottom of the body).

F/O and weave in your ends.

Using the yellow yarn, make another 'wing' just like the first one. Sew the two pieces together as shown (I used a light yellow sewing thread and sewing needle to prevent too much bulking at the edges and make the seam less noticeable.)


EARS:

(make 2 in black:)

Row 1: chain 5, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each remaining chain across, turn (4)
Row 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (6)
Row 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (8)
Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (10)
Row 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (12)
Row 6-14: sc in each sc across; turn
Row 15: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc; turn (10)
Row 16: sc in each sc across (10)
Row 17: repeat row 15 (8)
Row 18: repeat row 16 (8)

(make 2 in yellow:)

Row 1: chain 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each remaining chain across, turn (3)
Row 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (5)
Row 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (7)
Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (9)
Row 5-14: sc in each sc across; turn
Row 15: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc; turn (7)
Row 16: sc in each sc across (7)
Row 17: repeat row 15 (5)
Row 18: repeat row 16 (5)
F/O and weave in ends.

Place a yellow ear part and a black ear part together (the black will be slightly larger than the yellow. Attach Black yarn to one bottom end (the flatter end) and begin to sc evenly around the ear (going through both the black and yellow pieces) you may need to work 2 sc in each sc when you reach the 'top' rounded edge to keep the shape as you like. A little bit of 'turn' to the inside is fine, and in fact I kinda liked that, it seemed more natural.

Continue scing evenly to bottom of ear (don't sc across the bottom, leave it 'open' because it makes sewing the ears onto the head much easier).

Get a piece of scrap paper and cut out shapes for the white part (ear inset). Place the paper against the insde of the ear and trim if necessary to make sure the shape/size is as you want it. Using that paper piece as a template, cut out two white pieces of felt and carefully sew to the inside of the ear (using white sewing thread and needle)

TAIL:

(make 2 using black)

Row 1: chain 21, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each remaining chain across; turn (20)
Row 2: sc in each chain across (20)
Row 3: sc in each of next 12 sc; turn, leaving remaining sc unworked)
Row 4: sc in each sc across, at end of row, chain 5,
Row 5: sc in 2nd chain from hook, and in each remaining chain and in each of the 12 sc. ; turn (16)
Row 6: slip stitch across first 5 sc. Chain 1, sc in same sc as last slip stitch and each sc to end of row; turn
Row 7: sc in each sc to end of row, turn
Row 8: sc in each sc to end of row, chain 5
Row 9: sc in 2nd chain from hook, and in each remaining chain and in each of the row.

F/O and weave in ends. Place the two pieces together (matching them up as well as possible) and using sewing thread and needle, sew the two pieces together. At the point where the tail will 'meet' the body, either sc a couple of rounds of yellow. You can also use a small piece of yellow felt for the end of the tail.

ASSEMBLY:

Pin all the pieces together and make sure you're happy with the placement/size/ etc of the various parts.

Sew the parts together securely. Sew the 'wings' across the back from fingertip to fingertip and just at the 'base' of the back of the head. Tack the 'wings' to the bottom center of the body as well.

Sew feet, ears and tail on as desired.

Cut templates for eyes from scrap paper, then when you're pleased with the size/shape of the eye, use the paper template to cut out your felt pieces for the eyes. Cut circles for the 'cheek patches' from yellow felt.

Cut 'points' from black for the brow patches on the face.

After pinning brow patches, eyes and cheek patches in place so that you're satisfied with them, carefully sew in place. Then embroider the nose/mouth.


Emolga and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (April 2012). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not reprint, sell or distribute the pattern; or sell items made from this pattern.  

Monday, February 27, 2012

Just a quick update...

I'm still here!  LOL.


I know I've not been very active lately,  sorry 'bout that. Between the holidays (my busiest time of year)  and now I'm trying to re-do my kitchen and bathroom...I've been overloaded. I keep trying to set aside time for working on crochet projects,  but I end up working on house-hold stuff instead.  I've been planning this kitchen/bath redo for nearly three years,  so I'm excited to get the work going (and *finished* - since I really hate having everything all topsy-turvy).


I PROMISE that I will get back to working on designing some dolls as soon as I can get these major projects done (and once again be a happy person with my finished kitchen and bath  LOL).

In the meantime,  I'm around here to answer questions,  and I check here and on the FaceBook Page at least a few times every day.   :D

So don't forget to check in with us from time to time!
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